Beginner Flute Buying Guide for School Band

Part of our school band buying guides.

Start with the band director's list

Before you buy, read the instrument letter from school. The director teaches a room full of beginners at once and wants every flute to respond the same way, so the list is really a short description of a good beginner flute.

Most lists ask for the same things: closed holes, an offset G key, a split E and a C foot. The Levante LV-FL5111 has all four. Band Director Media Group's beginner flute guide, written by Janet Heukeshoven of Saint Mary's University, recommends closed-hole flutes for most beginners and a curved headjoint for very small students. If your list mentions something you're not sure about, the sections below explain each feature in plain English.

The features that matter, in plain English

Closed holes or open holes?

Look at the keys. On a closed-hole flute, each key is a solid cup. Press it anywhere and the hole seals. On an open-hole (or "French") flute, five keys have a small hole in the middle, and the fingertip itself has to seal it.

Start with closed holes. Flute Center, a large flute specialist, says closed holes let a beginner focus on making a good sound instead of worrying about exact finger placement. A child who misses a hole by a millimeter gets a squeak or a dead note and thinks it's their fault. Closed holes take that worry away.

What about plugs? Most open-hole flutes come with small rubber or plastic plugs that fill the holes. With plugs in, it plays like a closed-hole flute. That works, but plugs can fall out and get lost, so a true closed-hole flute is simpler for a first year.

Offset G or inline G?

The G key is worked by the left ring finger. On an offset G flute, that key sticks out slightly toward the player, so the finger doesn't have to stretch. On an inline G flute, every key sits in one straight line.

Gemeinhardt, one of the oldest US flute makers, says offset G is easier for smaller hands and makes no difference to the sound. For a 10-year-old's hand, get offset G. Both of our Stagg-family flutes have it.

Split E: what it actually does

High E, in the flute's top range, is a note that likes to crack or jump. A split E mechanism is a small extra rod that closes one extra key when the player fingers high E. That makes the note steadier and easier to hit, according to Flute Center's explainer. Your child won't need high E in the first year, but it helps later, and it's a nice sign that a student flute was designed with growing players in mind. Both flutes in our table have it.

C foot or B foot?

The foot joint is the short last section of the flute. A standard C foot plays down to low C. A B foot is a little longer, with one more key, and plays one note lower, to low B. Gemeinhardt notes the B foot also darkens the tone a little.

Beginner band music never asks for low B, and the longer foot adds weight that small arms feel. Repair shop JM Lehman Flute Repair classes "open hole with B foot" flutes as intermediate models. A C foot is right for a beginner, and it's what the Levante has.

Curved headjoint for small children

The headjoint is the top section, with the hole you blow across. A straight flute is about 26 inches long, held out to the right. Some 8- and 9-year-olds can't yet reach the far keys comfortably. A curved headjoint bends the top of the flute back toward the player, bringing the keys closer.

A quick test: have your child hold the assembled flute in playing position. If they have to twist their shoulders or wrists to reach the far keys, mention it to the band director. Most children in grades 4 to 6 reach a standard straight flute just fine, and they grow into it quickly.

Silver-plated or solid silver headjoint?

Almost every student flute is made of nickel silver (a copper-nickel alloy, no real silver in it) with a thin silver plating. That's exactly what the Levante uses for its head, body and keys. Step-up flutes swap in a solid (sterling) silver headjoint, which makers like Gemeinhardt say gives a clearer, warmer tone.

Here's the good news for your budget. A beginner's sound comes from their lips and air, not the metal. Twigg Musique's guide calls silver plating the ideal starting point and suggests a solid silver headjoint only after a player has mastered technique and scales. That's a middle- or high-school decision, not a 4th-grade one.

What a beginner flute should come with

• A case that holds the three pieces snugly, so nothing rattles.
• A cleaning swab or rod to dry the inside after playing.
• A polishing cloth for fingerprints on the outside.

The Levante LV-FL5111 arrives with a soft case with shoulder straps, a cleaning swab, a cloth and gloves, so it's ready for the first rehearsal.

Worth adding: pad cleaning paper ($3.95) for sticky keys, and a folding music stand ($29.95) for home practice. A flute stand ($14.95) keeps it from rolling off a bed.

What a flute does not need: cork grease or valve oil. Flutes have no cork joints and no valves. The Instrument Place's care guide warns never to use lubricant of any kind on the joints.

Our beginner flutes compared

Features are taken from each maker's description on our listings. Prices are our current prices.

Rent or buy? The flute numbers

Rental prices vary by store and region, but published rates give a clear picture:

• Beacock Music rents flutes for $19.99 to $39.99 a month, depending on the instrument's condition.
• RentMyInstrument rents a student flute for $35 a month plus $7 a month for maintenance. You own it after 36 payments: $1,260, plus $252 in maintenance fees.
• West Music's first flute payment is $44.95, which also covers the method book, care kit and a music stand.

Typically, a school year of renting (9 to 12 months) costs about $180 to $500. At the higher rates, one year of rent costs about what the Levante does to own, and a second year costs more. Rent-to-own plans can pass $1,500 before the flute is yours.

Owning makes the most sense when your child is excited to play, or when a younger brother or sister may pick up the flute next. After year one, an owned flute costs only its checkups, and it's yours to keep playing at home all summer.

Daily care in two minutes

• Swab after every single use. Wipe the inside of all three pieces with the swab. Moisture left inside is hard on pads.
• Never hold it by the keys. Put the flute together holding only the plain metal: the top of the body and the end of the foot. Twisting on the keys can bend the rods, and then notes stop working. The Instrument Place's guide gives exactly this rule.
• Don't store a wet swab in the case. Janet Heukeshoven warns against leaving fuzzy "pad saver" swabs inside, because they trap moisture.
• Case closed and latched whenever it's not being played.
• Get a checkup. A "clean, oil and adjust" (a repair shop takes it apart, cleans it, oils the keys and reseals the pads) keeps a flute playing well. JM Lehman Flute Repair suggests one every other year for student flutes, and charges $160 to $265. Hallie's Studio lists a beginner flute service at $100. Budget typically $100 to $265 every year or two.

Quick checks that it's playing well

A few easy checks in the first week, and again now and then, keep a new flute sounding its best:

• Low notes speak clearly. Low C and D should come out full, not airy. If they won't, a pad may not be sealing, which a quick adjustment fixes.
• Keys spring back. Every key should pop back up smoothly when released.
• No sticky pads. A key that clings or opens with a small "click" usually just has a damp pad. Slip a sheet of pad cleaning paper under it, close the key gently, and pull the paper out.
• Rods look straight. A quick look down the body should show the long rods running straight. If something looks bent, have a repair shop take a look before it affects the notes.
• The joints slide together smoothly. A gentle twist should seat each piece without forcing. Wipe the joints clean with a soft cloth; never grease them.

The easiest check of all is free: ask the band director or a private teacher to play a few notes on it during the first week. They'll hear right away that it's ready to go.

Four mistakes to avoid

• Buying "more flute" than a beginner can use. Open holes, a B foot and a solid silver head are for later.
• Skipping the director's list. A quick read confirms the features you want.
• Skipping the swab. Two minutes of drying after practice protects the pads.
• Assembling by the keys. It bends the rods, and then notes stop working.

Common questions

What age can a child start flute?

Most school programs start in grades 4 to 6. That's a good age to begin on a standard closed-hole flute.

Do I need to spend over $1,000 on a first flute?

No. What matters for a beginner is closed holes, offset G, a split E and pads that seal. The Levante LV-FL5111 has all of that for $529.99.

Does my child need an open-hole flute?

Not to start. Open holes are a step-up feature that usually comes in middle or high school, when a teacher suggests it.

Does a flute need cork grease or oil?

No. Flutes have no cork joints and no valves. Keep the joints clean and dry instead.