<![CDATA[2kool4skool Musical Instruments: Latest News]]> https://2kool4skool.com Mon, 28 Sep 2026 15:16:13 +0000 <![CDATA[How to Apply Rosin to Your Bow]]> https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-apply-rosin-to-your-bow/ Sat, 05 Sep 2026 16:17:45 +0000 https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-apply-rosin-to-your-bow/ First of all,  try to avoid touching the hair of your bow with your fingers. The oils on your fingers will damage the hair and you will have to re-hair your bow sooner than necessary.

If the rosin is brand new and super smooth, you should rough it up just a little with a bit of sandpaper or lightly score it with something sharp like the tip of a screw or something.

Tighten your bow so that you can just barely pass your pinky between the wood and the strings.

There are 2 techniques to get the rosin onto your bow. The "short back-and-forth" and the "long in one direction". Purists like the long approach while many use the short approach.

The short back and forth approach is the one my first teacher taught me. Just start at one end of the bow and quickly, with only light pressure, rub the rosin back and forth a few inches for about 15 seconds, then move up the bow to cover the next section and repeat until you are finished. If the bow makes the strings vibrate as you draw on them then it is done, if not, do it again.

The preferred method is the long approach. Run the rosin along the entire length of the bow in one direction. Do it slowly, take your time. You will know when there is enough rosin on the bow when it starts to "glide" across the hair. Putting too much rosin will just make a mess, so try and learn the feeling of the "glide".

A brand new bow may take a bit longer to do.

Always wipe your violin after playing. it will have rosin dust on it and wiping it down will keep your violin clean and working longer.

Apply a little rosin each time you play by running it along the bow 5-10 times.

If you hear a noticeable difference in tone, it may be that you need ro recharge your bow with rosin.

From the 2kool4skool guides library (written 2017, restored 2026).

]]> First of all,  try to avoid touching the hair of your bow with your fingers. The oils on your fingers will damage the hair and you will have to re-hair your bow sooner than necessary.

If the rosin is brand new and super smooth, you should rough it up just a little with a bit of sandpaper or lightly score it with something sharp like the tip of a screw or something.

Tighten your bow so that you can just barely pass your pinky between the wood and the strings.

There are 2 techniques to get the rosin onto your bow. The "short back-and-forth" and the "long in one direction". Purists like the long approach while many use the short approach.

The short back and forth approach is the one my first teacher taught me. Just start at one end of the bow and quickly, with only light pressure, rub the rosin back and forth a few inches for about 15 seconds, then move up the bow to cover the next section and repeat until you are finished. If the bow makes the strings vibrate as you draw on them then it is done, if not, do it again.

The preferred method is the long approach. Run the rosin along the entire length of the bow in one direction. Do it slowly, take your time. You will know when there is enough rosin on the bow when it starts to "glide" across the hair. Putting too much rosin will just make a mess, so try and learn the feeling of the "glide".

A brand new bow may take a bit longer to do.

Always wipe your violin after playing. it will have rosin dust on it and wiping it down will keep your violin clean and working longer.

Apply a little rosin each time you play by running it along the bow 5-10 times.

If you hear a noticeable difference in tone, it may be that you need ro recharge your bow with rosin.

From the 2kool4skool guides library (written 2017, restored 2026).

]]> <![CDATA[How To Fix a Fallen Sound Post on Violin]]> https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-fix-a-fallen-sound-post-on-violin/ Sat, 05 Sep 2026 16:17:44 +0000 https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-fix-a-fallen-sound-post-on-violin/ Some info about the sound post on violins, cellos and violas A sound post is a small piece of wood that transmits the vibrations of the top of the instrument to the back plate. It makes the violin tone much better and gets the whole wood body of the violin to play a part in the tonality. A novice would be able to hear the difference between a good violin with and without the sound post. The sound post is never glued in place, it is like a wood dowel that is placed inside the violin directly under the bridge (more or less) from the top to the back of the violin. It is held in place by the downward pressure of the bridge and strings on the violin top. Never glue or a"x it in place by any means other than the pressure ofthe strings of the violin. That will defeat the purpose of the sound post. It’s a catch 22 when shipping because if you leave the bridge on with the string tension, the violin could be damaged. If you loosen the strings and take the bridge o the sound post could come loose. The most common thing that happens is the violin takes a knock during shipping and the sound post falls out and starts rattling inside the violin. sonce the sound post is never glued, a slight knock will make the sound post fall if there is no string tension on the bridge. To set a soundpost in a cello, viola or violin, a professional luthier shouldn't charge you more than $25. It is not the kind of thing that a beginner should try, but it does not take a long time at all for an experienced tech. without experience it could take you hours and a lot of curse words. it's probably like building a ship in a bottle. so if you like that sort of thing, here are some tips. #rst of all, you will need is a sound post setter . it is a specialized tool for setting a sound post on a violin. some people make their own gadgets or tinker with wire and forks, etc. but a sound post setter is the proper tool for the job. We have a sound post seter that you can purchase online . But what do you do if you don't want to buy one? make your own sound post setter of course get a wire hanger and unwind it. fole one end to a sharp blade-like point. bend the wire into a less-than-S-shape. the whole thing shouldn't be more than 16" long so cut of any excess. on the dull end of the wire, bend it into a tight curve with some pliers. about the diameter of the sound post. (this will be for moving the sound post once it is almost in place). stick the sound post on the sharp end of the sound post setter about 3/4 of the way up the sound post. the wood grain of the sound post should match the direction of grain of the violin top, so make sure you take this into account whan sticking it on the end of the tool. make sure the bridge is on the instrument and the strings are a little bit loose, but not too much. insert the sound post carefully into the treble-side F hole. make sure it is laying down until you get it to the center of the body where the cavity is higher. then upright it directly under the bridge and start to move it towards the treble side until it will stand on its own with just the pressure of the top and back. don't wedge it in to far. one it is able to stand up on it's own, remove the tool and turn it around to adjust the position. It should be snug but not jammed in too tight. it should also be perfectly vertical. the position of the soundpost is the most crucial component to the potential sound quality of your violin. you can spen hours and hours, literally, experimenting with the best position. to start with, put the sound post directly under the treble foot of the bridge and about a quarter of an inch back towards the tailpiece. that is where they seem to be on most factory-set violins. then you can experiment from there. this job is not for the feignt of heart, but if you are adventourous, bored, or inquisitive then you might just want to give it a try. knowing how to do it yourself may save you on a gig when you need to do it yourself in a pinch because there is nobody to take it to. you can also make your violn sound better (or worse) if you experiment with the position. but if you don't need to do it yourself, you should probably just pay a professional to do it for you. email us if you want a reference for a quali#ed luthier in your area who will do it for less than $30.

« Back © Developed by CommerceLab

From the 2kool4skool guides library (written 2017, restored 2026).

]]> Some info about the sound post on violins, cellos and violas A sound post is a small piece of wood that transmits the vibrations of the top of the instrument to the back plate. It makes the violin tone much better and gets the whole wood body of the violin to play a part in the tonality. A novice would be able to hear the difference between a good violin with and without the sound post. The sound post is never glued in place, it is like a wood dowel that is placed inside the violin directly under the bridge (more or less) from the top to the back of the violin. It is held in place by the downward pressure of the bridge and strings on the violin top. Never glue or a"x it in place by any means other than the pressure ofthe strings of the violin. That will defeat the purpose of the sound post. It’s a catch 22 when shipping because if you leave the bridge on with the string tension, the violin could be damaged. If you loosen the strings and take the bridge o the sound post could come loose. The most common thing that happens is the violin takes a knock during shipping and the sound post falls out and starts rattling inside the violin. sonce the sound post is never glued, a slight knock will make the sound post fall if there is no string tension on the bridge. To set a soundpost in a cello, viola or violin, a professional luthier shouldn't charge you more than $25. It is not the kind of thing that a beginner should try, but it does not take a long time at all for an experienced tech. without experience it could take you hours and a lot of curse words. it's probably like building a ship in a bottle. so if you like that sort of thing, here are some tips. #rst of all, you will need is a sound post setter . it is a specialized tool for setting a sound post on a violin. some people make their own gadgets or tinker with wire and forks, etc. but a sound post setter is the proper tool for the job. We have a sound post seter that you can purchase online . But what do you do if you don't want to buy one? make your own sound post setter of course get a wire hanger and unwind it. fole one end to a sharp blade-like point. bend the wire into a less-than-S-shape. the whole thing shouldn't be more than 16" long so cut of any excess. on the dull end of the wire, bend it into a tight curve with some pliers. about the diameter of the sound post. (this will be for moving the sound post once it is almost in place). stick the sound post on the sharp end of the sound post setter about 3/4 of the way up the sound post. the wood grain of the sound post should match the direction of grain of the violin top, so make sure you take this into account whan sticking it on the end of the tool. make sure the bridge is on the instrument and the strings are a little bit loose, but not too much. insert the sound post carefully into the treble-side F hole. make sure it is laying down until you get it to the center of the body where the cavity is higher. then upright it directly under the bridge and start to move it towards the treble side until it will stand on its own with just the pressure of the top and back. don't wedge it in to far. one it is able to stand up on it's own, remove the tool and turn it around to adjust the position. It should be snug but not jammed in too tight. it should also be perfectly vertical. the position of the soundpost is the most crucial component to the potential sound quality of your violin. you can spen hours and hours, literally, experimenting with the best position. to start with, put the sound post directly under the treble foot of the bridge and about a quarter of an inch back towards the tailpiece. that is where they seem to be on most factory-set violins. then you can experiment from there. this job is not for the feignt of heart, but if you are adventourous, bored, or inquisitive then you might just want to give it a try. knowing how to do it yourself may save you on a gig when you need to do it yourself in a pinch because there is nobody to take it to. you can also make your violn sound better (or worse) if you experiment with the position. but if you don't need to do it yourself, you should probably just pay a professional to do it for you. email us if you want a reference for a quali#ed luthier in your area who will do it for less than $30.

« Back © Developed by CommerceLab

From the 2kool4skool guides library (written 2017, restored 2026).

]]> <![CDATA[How to Select the Correct Size Cello]]> https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-select-the-correct-size-cello/ Sat, 05 Sep 2026 16:17:44 +0000 https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-select-the-correct-size-cello/ This tutorial will help you to select the correct size of cello. You shouldn't have to try out every size of cello. You should be able to judge what size you need solely by your height. But here are a few different methods of sizing.

By Age:

  • 1/8 size - 4 to 6 years old
  • 1/4 size - 5 to 7 years old
  • 1/2 size - 7 to 11 years old
  • 3/4 size - 11 to 15 years old
  • 4/4 size - 15 and above

By Height:

  • 1/8 to 1/4 size - below 4 feet
  • 1/2 size - 4 to 4 1/2 feet
  • 3/4 size - 4 1/2 to 5 feet
  • 4/4 size - 5 feet and above

Proper Cello Sizing Sit in chair with your feet touching the "oor. Adjust the endpin so that it extends 12 inches from the bottom of the cello. Rest the top of the cello body against your chest at a 45 degree angle. The top of the cello body should rest at the center of your chest. The C string tuning peg should reach your left ear. If the cello body or tuning peg is too low, you need a bigger cello If the cello body or tuning peg is too high, you need a smaller cello

« Back © Developed by CommerceLab

From the 2kool4skool guides library (written 2017, restored 2026).

]]> This tutorial will help you to select the correct size of cello. You shouldn't have to try out every size of cello. You should be able to judge what size you need solely by your height. But here are a few different methods of sizing.

By Age:

  • 1/8 size - 4 to 6 years old
  • 1/4 size - 5 to 7 years old
  • 1/2 size - 7 to 11 years old
  • 3/4 size - 11 to 15 years old
  • 4/4 size - 15 and above

By Height:

  • 1/8 to 1/4 size - below 4 feet
  • 1/2 size - 4 to 4 1/2 feet
  • 3/4 size - 4 1/2 to 5 feet
  • 4/4 size - 5 feet and above

Proper Cello Sizing Sit in chair with your feet touching the "oor. Adjust the endpin so that it extends 12 inches from the bottom of the cello. Rest the top of the cello body against your chest at a 45 degree angle. The top of the cello body should rest at the center of your chest. The C string tuning peg should reach your left ear. If the cello body or tuning peg is too low, you need a bigger cello If the cello body or tuning peg is too high, you need a smaller cello

« Back © Developed by CommerceLab

From the 2kool4skool guides library (written 2017, restored 2026).

]]> <![CDATA[How to Buy Your First Clarinet]]> https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-buy-your-first-clarinet/ Fri, 04 Sep 2026 23:08:35 +0000 https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-buy-your-first-clarinet/ The first thing you must decide on with any woodwind instrument is the key or tone that your instrument is tuned to. There are over 12 different clarinets ranging in size from 14in to over that of a seated adult, but the most common seen is the Bb clarinet . This clarinet is perfect for those who are starting because it provides you with a good range of notes with out being too large. Finally the Bb clarinet provides you with the greatest range of music to learn from and the most genres to study. This variety in music will help you develop your style as a musician.

After deciding on the key the next decision you must make is your reed strength. A reed is a shaved piece of cane used in the mouthpiece that actually creates the sound of the instrument. Most students begin on softer reeds because softer reeds are easier on the mouth but softer reeds mean less tonally quality and less ability to register with a greater range of notes. Reeds are measured on a scale of 1-5, 5 being the strongest, but most clarinets come with a 2-strength reed. This is often considered to be a good starting strength for most people.

The final aspect of your purchase you should consider is the case. A clarinet is a relatively fragile instrument. Most are made from a wood or resin material that is not susceptible to forceful impacts. Due to this fact a clarinet should always come with a hard shell case like those in our inventory. This is especially important if the prospective player is younger and is more likely to drop it from time to time.

Well we at 2 Kool 4 Skool hope this article will help you decide on the clarinet just right for you and be sure to check out our great selection of clarinets. Just click here to view our whole inventory.

Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> The first thing you must decide on with any woodwind instrument is the key or tone that your instrument is tuned to. There are over 12 different clarinets ranging in size from 14in to over that of a seated adult, but the most common seen is the Bb clarinet . This clarinet is perfect for those who are starting because it provides you with a good range of notes with out being too large. Finally the Bb clarinet provides you with the greatest range of music to learn from and the most genres to study. This variety in music will help you develop your style as a musician.

After deciding on the key the next decision you must make is your reed strength. A reed is a shaved piece of cane used in the mouthpiece that actually creates the sound of the instrument. Most students begin on softer reeds because softer reeds are easier on the mouth but softer reeds mean less tonally quality and less ability to register with a greater range of notes. Reeds are measured on a scale of 1-5, 5 being the strongest, but most clarinets come with a 2-strength reed. This is often considered to be a good starting strength for most people.

The final aspect of your purchase you should consider is the case. A clarinet is a relatively fragile instrument. Most are made from a wood or resin material that is not susceptible to forceful impacts. Due to this fact a clarinet should always come with a hard shell case like those in our inventory. This is especially important if the prospective player is younger and is more likely to drop it from time to time.

Well we at 2 Kool 4 Skool hope this article will help you decide on the clarinet just right for you and be sure to check out our great selection of clarinets. Just click here to view our whole inventory.

Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> <![CDATA[Tuning the Saxophone]]> https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/tuning-the-saxophone/ Fri, 04 Sep 2026 23:08:35 +0000 https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/tuning-the-saxophone/ how to tune a sax

Tuning is the process of matching pitch, which requires two sources: your instrument and another instrumentalist or electronic tuner. Experienced players tune to a "remembered" pitch.
How to Tune
1. Warm up thoroughly before tuning.
2. Tune to a reliable frequency using written "C", which is "Concert E-flat."
3. Play at a medium dynamic level without vibrato.
4. Adjust the mouthpiece on the neckpiece to lengthen or shorten the instrument.
5. "Pull out" to lower the pitch.
6. "Push in" to raise the pitch.
How to Control Pitch
Pitch problems can be corrected by changing the angle of the mouthpiece in the mouth, turning the neckpiece slightly to the right or left, or varying the amount of bottom lip over the teeth.
The saxophone embouchure does not have the lip flexibility of other woodwind embouchures. As a last resort, students may "lip up" the pitch by raising the jaw to tighten the embouchure. There is an excellent pitch-alteration chart (p. 66) in the book entitled, "The Art of Saxophone Playing" by Larry Teal.

Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> how to tune a sax

Tuning is the process of matching pitch, which requires two sources: your instrument and another instrumentalist or electronic tuner. Experienced players tune to a "remembered" pitch.
How to Tune
1. Warm up thoroughly before tuning.
2. Tune to a reliable frequency using written "C", which is "Concert E-flat."
3. Play at a medium dynamic level without vibrato.
4. Adjust the mouthpiece on the neckpiece to lengthen or shorten the instrument.
5. "Pull out" to lower the pitch.
6. "Push in" to raise the pitch.
How to Control Pitch
Pitch problems can be corrected by changing the angle of the mouthpiece in the mouth, turning the neckpiece slightly to the right or left, or varying the amount of bottom lip over the teeth.
The saxophone embouchure does not have the lip flexibility of other woodwind embouchures. As a last resort, students may "lip up" the pitch by raising the jaw to tighten the embouchure. There is an excellent pitch-alteration chart (p. 66) in the book entitled, "The Art of Saxophone Playing" by Larry Teal.

Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> <![CDATA[What to look for when buying your first flute]]> https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/what-to-look-for-when-buying-your-first-flute/ Fri, 04 Sep 2026 23:08:34 +0000 https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/what-to-look-for-when-buying-your-first-flute/ So the first thing you should decide on is the pitch of your flute. The pitch of your flute will dictate all the notes you can play. There are 5 flutes all together but the most commonly seen is the concert c flute . This is the most commonly played and is the number one choice of those just getting started with the flute.

Well now that you've decided the type of flute you want what should you look for now? Well that can be a tricky question but we recommend looking at the head joints. There are several things one should consider when looking at the head joint but the most important is weather to buy a curved or straight head joint. A curved head joint is usually a consideration for our younger or smaller players because it is easier for them to hold. Beyond that the only other consideration in the head joint is the lip plate. The lip plate is the part of the flute you blow across to create sound. A curved lip plate is generally considered easier to play and should definitely be a part of your first flute.

From there you want to take into consideration the foot joint. Most concert C flutes come with 2 keys on the foot joint, but if you want to increase the amount of notes your can play you may want to upgrade to a B foot joint . This will allow you to play one note lower than the first octave, which in turn gives you more range of notes to play.

The final aspect of your flute you should consider is the metal it is made of. Most student models are made from nickel silver, an alloy, which if cared for will last a very long time. Most flutes are then plated in either nickel or silver to prevent corrosion. Silver is preferable but nickel will do fine if it is outside of your budget. After you progress in you flute playing an all silver flute should be a consideration, but not until you are sure you wish to take it seriously.

So now you know all the parts of the flute you should be looking at and I hope this article provided a clearer picture of what to look for. Be sure and check out our flute section , and we hope you find what your looking for.

Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> So the first thing you should decide on is the pitch of your flute. The pitch of your flute will dictate all the notes you can play. There are 5 flutes all together but the most commonly seen is the concert c flute . This is the most commonly played and is the number one choice of those just getting started with the flute.

Well now that you've decided the type of flute you want what should you look for now? Well that can be a tricky question but we recommend looking at the head joints. There are several things one should consider when looking at the head joint but the most important is weather to buy a curved or straight head joint. A curved head joint is usually a consideration for our younger or smaller players because it is easier for them to hold. Beyond that the only other consideration in the head joint is the lip plate. The lip plate is the part of the flute you blow across to create sound. A curved lip plate is generally considered easier to play and should definitely be a part of your first flute.

From there you want to take into consideration the foot joint. Most concert C flutes come with 2 keys on the foot joint, but if you want to increase the amount of notes your can play you may want to upgrade to a B foot joint . This will allow you to play one note lower than the first octave, which in turn gives you more range of notes to play.

The final aspect of your flute you should consider is the metal it is made of. Most student models are made from nickel silver, an alloy, which if cared for will last a very long time. Most flutes are then plated in either nickel or silver to prevent corrosion. Silver is preferable but nickel will do fine if it is outside of your budget. After you progress in you flute playing an all silver flute should be a consideration, but not until you are sure you wish to take it seriously.

So now you know all the parts of the flute you should be looking at and I hope this article provided a clearer picture of what to look for. Be sure and check out our flute section , and we hope you find what your looking for.

Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> <![CDATA[How To Care for your New Trumpet]]> https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-care-for-your-new-trumpet/ Fri, 04 Sep 2026 23:04:47 +0000 https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-care-for-your-new-trumpet/ Caring for your new trumpet:
Your trumpet needs to be cared for properly in order to maintain good use. The valves, valve casings and the slides of the trumpet need to be maintained regularly.

A NEW trumpet needs to have the valve casings cleaned and oiled DAILY for about 2-3 weeks while you break in the valves. And then, after the break-in period, about every 14-30 days. If proper care is not given, the trumpet valves will begin to become sticky. Do not be alarmed if starts to happen, proper cleaning of the valve casing and valve piston will bring the valve back to normal fast action.

To clean piston valves, remove pistons. Wash the pistons and the inside of casings with liquid dish soap and a very damp piston brush. Pistons are easily dented, so handle them carefully. Rinse with warm water, then dry with clean cloth. Lubricate the piston and the casing with the valve oil and re-assemble. Be sure to put each piston in the proper casing. Number one casing is the nearest to the mouthpiece; number three is nearest to the bell. Each piston is numbered. Each piston also has a plastic tab under the spring that fits into a keyway in the valve casing. Some trumpets have two keyways, a larger and smaller, be sure to inspect and properly install the piston with keyway. Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> Caring for your new trumpet:
Your trumpet needs to be cared for properly in order to maintain good use. The valves, valve casings and the slides of the trumpet need to be maintained regularly.

A NEW trumpet needs to have the valve casings cleaned and oiled DAILY for about 2-3 weeks while you break in the valves. And then, after the break-in period, about every 14-30 days. If proper care is not given, the trumpet valves will begin to become sticky. Do not be alarmed if starts to happen, proper cleaning of the valve casing and valve piston will bring the valve back to normal fast action.

To clean piston valves, remove pistons. Wash the pistons and the inside of casings with liquid dish soap and a very damp piston brush. Pistons are easily dented, so handle them carefully. Rinse with warm water, then dry with clean cloth. Lubricate the piston and the casing with the valve oil and re-assemble. Be sure to put each piston in the proper casing. Number one casing is the nearest to the mouthpiece; number three is nearest to the bell. Each piston is numbered. Each piston also has a plastic tab under the spring that fits into a keyway in the valve casing. Some trumpets have two keyways, a larger and smaller, be sure to inspect and properly install the piston with keyway. Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> <![CDATA[How to Buy Your First Trombone]]> https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-buy-your-first-trombone/ Fri, 04 Sep 2026 23:04:46 +0000 https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-buy-your-first-trombone/ But what about the valve trombone ? Well the valve trombone uses a set of valves to change the pitch much like a trumpet dose, if fact the valve trombone is often used as a "double" or second similar instrument for trumpet players. The valve trombone dose have a slightly different sound from a slide trombone. This style is more commonly used in European symphonic pieces and many jazz ensembles. The valve trombone has a higher attach which gives it a brighter sound to the trombone more like a trumpet. The valve trombone however is rarely used in an American symphonic or orchestral setting.

So what should you look for in your trombone? Well for a first trombone the deciding factor should be the bore size. A first trombone should be from .500-.525. This is because a larger bore, while it provides a more full rich tone, can be difficult for new players lungs to fill.

So whatever trombone you decide on we, at 2 Kool 4 Skool , hope this article will help you in you search. Also be sure and check out our awesome selection of trombones.

Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> But what about the valve trombone ? Well the valve trombone uses a set of valves to change the pitch much like a trumpet dose, if fact the valve trombone is often used as a "double" or second similar instrument for trumpet players. The valve trombone dose have a slightly different sound from a slide trombone. This style is more commonly used in European symphonic pieces and many jazz ensembles. The valve trombone has a higher attach which gives it a brighter sound to the trombone more like a trumpet. The valve trombone however is rarely used in an American symphonic or orchestral setting.

So what should you look for in your trombone? Well for a first trombone the deciding factor should be the bore size. A first trombone should be from .500-.525. This is because a larger bore, while it provides a more full rich tone, can be difficult for new players lungs to fill.

So whatever trombone you decide on we, at 2 Kool 4 Skool , hope this article will help you in you search. Also be sure and check out our awesome selection of trombones.

Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> <![CDATA[how to tune a trumpet]]> https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-tune-a-trumpet/ Fri, 04 Sep 2026 23:04:46 +0000 https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-tune-a-trumpet/ tuning the trumpet

Tuning a TrumpetTuning
The tuning of the instrument is more important than one first might think. When one plays exactly in tune with the instrument, it resonates the most, and the effort to play the trumpet is diminished. In this way, it adds endurance and the sound will be better.
In order to play in tune and at the same time be in tune with the instrument, the instrument should be the best quality possible. A trumpet that we have to "lip around" all the time will be exhausting to play.
The position of the tuning slide must continuously change, allowing us to play at the instrument's pitch center.
Playing in tune with the horn
Most trumpet players tend to play too high compared to the pitch center, not allowing the instrument to resonate properly. Finding the resonant spot can easily be found by bending some tones down and up until the most resonant tone is heard. There will be much overtones at this spot, sounding a bit bright to the player.
It seems like classical players have a tendency to play under the center of the instrument, assisted by a largish mouthpiece. This is likely caused by the pursuit of a dark sound.
Mark van Cleave Maximizing practice vol.I has lots of exercises with the purpose of finding the pitch center.
Tuning to your lips
The interesting thing about tuning the instrument, is that the instruments pitch center depend on the condition of your lips. Soft lips require a high tuning of the instrument, while stiff lips require pulling the tuning slide.
As the condition of the lips change during performance, this require a continuos change of the tuning slide position. Typically, for playing lead trumpet, the lips tend to stiffen a bit during performance. If the tuning slide is not pulled out gradually, the player will have to play below the instruments pitch center, reducing endurance significantly.

Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> tuning the trumpet

Tuning a TrumpetTuning
The tuning of the instrument is more important than one first might think. When one plays exactly in tune with the instrument, it resonates the most, and the effort to play the trumpet is diminished. In this way, it adds endurance and the sound will be better.
In order to play in tune and at the same time be in tune with the instrument, the instrument should be the best quality possible. A trumpet that we have to "lip around" all the time will be exhausting to play.
The position of the tuning slide must continuously change, allowing us to play at the instrument's pitch center.
Playing in tune with the horn
Most trumpet players tend to play too high compared to the pitch center, not allowing the instrument to resonate properly. Finding the resonant spot can easily be found by bending some tones down and up until the most resonant tone is heard. There will be much overtones at this spot, sounding a bit bright to the player.
It seems like classical players have a tendency to play under the center of the instrument, assisted by a largish mouthpiece. This is likely caused by the pursuit of a dark sound.
Mark van Cleave Maximizing practice vol.I has lots of exercises with the purpose of finding the pitch center.
Tuning to your lips
The interesting thing about tuning the instrument, is that the instruments pitch center depend on the condition of your lips. Soft lips require a high tuning of the instrument, while stiff lips require pulling the tuning slide.
As the condition of the lips change during performance, this require a continuos change of the tuning slide position. Typically, for playing lead trumpet, the lips tend to stiffen a bit during performance. If the tuning slide is not pulled out gradually, the player will have to play below the instruments pitch center, reducing endurance significantly.

Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> <![CDATA[How to assemble a child's drum set]]> https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-assemble-a-childs-drum-set/ Fri, 04 Sep 2026 23:04:42 +0000 https://2kool4skool.com/instrument-blog/how-to-assemble-a-childs-drum-set/ Instructions for assembling a child's drum set (12" or 16" kick drum)

First, assemble the kick drum (biggest colored shell) by placing the shell flat on a carpeted floor.
Place one of the white drum heads on top of the kick drum with the side that has the printing on it facing you.
Then take the big metal ring and place it over the drum head.
There is a bag with a bunch of toggle head screw thingies. (lugs)
Place each one so that it hooks over the ring that you just placed on the kick drum and screw it into the metal lug receptacles on the kick drum shell. Do not tighten them all the way, just make sure that they are in enough to hold the drum ring securely to the drum shell. You will tighten them later until you are pleased with the sound of the drum.
After you have attached all of the lugs to the drum shell, turn the kick drum over and do the same thing with the other side.

There are 2 short thin rods with plastic or rubber caps on one end.
These are inserted into the bottom side of the kick drum (into metal receptacles that can be tightened) so that the kick drum will stay in place while it�s being played.

There is a kick pedal and a kick beater (thin rod with big felt thing on the end.
The beater slides into the hole on the fulcrum of the kick pedal and is tightened.
The 2 prongs that are underneath the foot pad of the kick pedal are squeezed together and place in the holes at the base of the kick pedal. Make sure that the spring is attached from the side of the base of the pedal to the end of the shaft (see one of the attached pictures.)

Now you can attach the kick pedal to the kick drum.
it is clamped on to the bottom of the kick drum so that, when the player is seated in the playing position, the kick pedal is on the floor right in front of him. The big metal fitting on the kick drum will be at the very top and the rods to keep the kick drum in place will be at the bottom.

Now, take the big pole that has an elbow (tom rack) and set the angle at near 90 degrees, then slip one end in to the big fitting at the top of the kick drum.
Slide the tom (the medium size drum) onto the other end of the pole,

Now, take the long skinny rod (cymbal stand) and slide it into the top of the kick drum. Next, take a felt washer, cymbal, felt washer and toggle nut, and place then on the top of the cymbal stand in that order,

The snare stand is the folding stand that has 3 swinging arms. (you may need to attach the part with the swinging arms to the base of the stand (I forget). Open the legs of the snare stand just like you would a camera tripod. Then fan out the 3 swing-arms of the snare stand and place the snare drum (smallest) snugly in the arms of the snare stand.

The throne (seat) is the last thing to assemble. The seat part is easily recognizable. Just attach it to the throne tripod base.

Now you can tighten all of the lugs on the kick drum with the drum key (small T wrench- included) until the heads are taut and the kick doesn�t sound �flabby or slappy�) . You can do the same with the other drums if you need to.




Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

]]> Instructions for assembling a child's drum set (12" or 16" kick drum)

First, assemble the kick drum (biggest colored shell) by placing the shell flat on a carpeted floor.
Place one of the white drum heads on top of the kick drum with the side that has the printing on it facing you.
Then take the big metal ring and place it over the drum head.
There is a bag with a bunch of toggle head screw thingies. (lugs)
Place each one so that it hooks over the ring that you just placed on the kick drum and screw it into the metal lug receptacles on the kick drum shell. Do not tighten them all the way, just make sure that they are in enough to hold the drum ring securely to the drum shell. You will tighten them later until you are pleased with the sound of the drum.
After you have attached all of the lugs to the drum shell, turn the kick drum over and do the same thing with the other side.

There are 2 short thin rods with plastic or rubber caps on one end.
These are inserted into the bottom side of the kick drum (into metal receptacles that can be tightened) so that the kick drum will stay in place while it�s being played.

There is a kick pedal and a kick beater (thin rod with big felt thing on the end.
The beater slides into the hole on the fulcrum of the kick pedal and is tightened.
The 2 prongs that are underneath the foot pad of the kick pedal are squeezed together and place in the holes at the base of the kick pedal. Make sure that the spring is attached from the side of the base of the pedal to the end of the shaft (see one of the attached pictures.)

Now you can attach the kick pedal to the kick drum.
it is clamped on to the bottom of the kick drum so that, when the player is seated in the playing position, the kick pedal is on the floor right in front of him. The big metal fitting on the kick drum will be at the very top and the rods to keep the kick drum in place will be at the bottom.

Now, take the big pole that has an elbow (tom rack) and set the angle at near 90 degrees, then slip one end in to the big fitting at the top of the kick drum.
Slide the tom (the medium size drum) onto the other end of the pole,

Now, take the long skinny rod (cymbal stand) and slide it into the top of the kick drum. Next, take a felt washer, cymbal, felt washer and toggle nut, and place then on the top of the cymbal stand in that order,

The snare stand is the folding stand that has 3 swinging arms. (you may need to attach the part with the swinging arms to the base of the stand (I forget). Open the legs of the snare stand just like you would a camera tripod. Then fan out the 3 swing-arms of the snare stand and place the snare drum (smallest) snugly in the arms of the snare stand.

The throne (seat) is the last thing to assemble. The seat part is easily recognizable. Just attach it to the throne tripod base.

Now you can tighten all of the lugs on the kick drum with the drum key (small T wrench- included) until the heads are taut and the kick doesn�t sound �flabby or slappy�) . You can do the same with the other drums if you need to.




Originally published on our previous site and restored in 2026. Prices and models mentioned may have changed; the advice has not.

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