Woodwind players are easier to shop for than they look. They use some things up (reeds, cork grease, pads) and they put off buying others for years (a better case, a stand, a second instrument for marching season or travel). This guide is sorted by budget, with a section for oboe players, and every gift on it is in stock and ready to ship.

Gifts at a glance

Stocking stuffers under $30

These are the things woodwind players run out of, wear out, or keep meaning to buy. Each one is small enough for a stocking.

The one they always need more of

Rico Bb clarinet reeds, 3-pack

A reed is the thin strip of cane that vibrates against the mouthpiece. It wears out with playing, and a chipped one can ruin a concert, so spares are always welcome. The Rico 3-pack ($4.95) is for the B-flat clarinet, the one most band students play, in strength 2.5. That's between medium-soft and medium, a good fit for a player who has moved past the first few months.

Off the floor, out of harm's way

Clarinet and flute stands

A stand holds the instrument upright between songs, so it doesn't roll off a chair or get stepped on. The clarinet stand ($14.95) and the flute stand ($14.95) are small, light tripods that fit in a gig bag pocket.

Bundle the small stuff

One reed pack can feel like a token gift. Three small things together feel like a real present, and they all arrive in one order. Two easy bundles:

• The clarinet bundle: Rico reeds ($4.95), cork grease ($4.95) and a clarinet stand ($14.95). Everything a clarinetist reaches for at every rehearsal.
• The oboe bundle: an oboe pad set ($29.95), a Manhasset oboe peg ($14.95) and cork grease ($4.95).

For oboe players

Oboists are hard to buy for, because so much of what they use is personal: most play reeds made by hand, often their own. These gifts skip the guesswork.

For the next repad

Oboe pads, full set

Pads are the small cushions under each key that seal the tone holes. Over the years they harden and leak, and the oboe gets harder to play. A full oboe pad set ($29.95) has white bladder pads and cork pads, made in the USA. It's a thoughtful gift for an oboist who repads their own instrument, or one who is due for an overhaul and can hand the set to their repair technician.

Turn a wind stand into an oboe stand

Manhasset oboe peg

If they already own a Manhasset wind instrument stand, the Manhasset oboe peg ($14.95) adds a peg shaped for the oboe, so it sits securely between pieces. It's a small gift that shows you paid attention.

For clarinetists who repad, and E-flat players

• Clarinet pads: a full clarinet pad set ($29.95) from Micro, so a whole clarinet can be repadded in one go.
• E-flat clarinet reeds: the small E-flat clarinet takes its own reeds. A box of 10 Vandoren E-flat reeds in strength 3 is $60.99.

Gifts under $175: cases and mics

A good case is the gift most players never buy for themselves. The one that came with their instrument is often worn out or heavy.

Our favorite gift for a flutist

MBT hardshell flute case

The MBT flute case ($85.99) is a hardshell case in high-density polymer with aluminum edges and a plush lining. For a lighter case that carries like a bag, the MBT polyfoam flute case ($66.99) has a nylon cover, an accessory pocket and a shoulder strap.

Cases for clarinet and sax

Stagg and MBT cases

• Clarinet: the MBT padded clarinet case ($91.99) is light, with a shoulder strap and an accessory pocket; the Stagg molded ABS clarinet case ($94.99) has aluminum edging and a plush interior.
• Alto sax: the Stagg ABS alto sax case ($132.99) is a molded case with aluminum edging, high-density padding and a plush interior.
• Tenor sax: the Stagg tenor sax soft case ($136.99) is padded nylon with two S-shaped carrying straps, an accessory pocket and a flap that keeps rain off the main zipper.

Before you buy, check what they play: cases are shaped for one instrument, and an alto case won't fit a tenor.

For the sax player who performs

Stagg wireless saxophone microphone

The Stagg wireless sax mic set ($126.99) clips a small microphone onto the saxophone and sends the sound to a receiver at the sound system, so the player can walk the stage with no cable. It pairs on its own, runs up to 6 hours on a rechargeable battery, and reaches about 82 feet.

Why players like it

• No cable to trip over on stage
• Same sound wherever they stand

Good to know

• It needs a sound system or amp to plug the receiver into

For flutists who play amplified, the Barcus Berry 6100 flute mic ($139.99) is built into a cork assembly for the flute's headjoint.

Gifts under $300: a second instrument

Many woodwind players want a second instrument: one for marching band or outdoor gigs, one to keep at a grandparent's house, or a first try at a new member of the family, like the piccolo.

A flute with everything in the box

Stagg student flute

The Stagg WS-FL111 flute ($249.99) is a silver-plated C flute with closed holes, an offset G key and a split E mechanism, which makes the high E easier to play. It's workshop-tested, and comes with an ABS case, a cleaning swab, a cloth and gloves. Our flute buying guide explains each of those features.

A clarinet for marching season

Levante and Stagg clarinets

An ABS plastic clarinet shrugs off cold football fields and summer heat that a wooden clarinet shouldn't face. The Levante LV-CL4100 ($284.99) has solid metal, nickel-plated keys and rings, and comes with a mouthpiece, ligature, cap, two reeds, a swab, cork grease and a soft case. The Stagg WS-CL110 ($228.99) is about 10 percent lighter than a typical clarinet and includes two barrels for fine-tuning the pitch. Our clarinet buying guide compares them.

For the flutist who wants to try something new

Stagg piccolo

The piccolo is the flute's little sibling, an octave higher, and many band flutists are asked to play it sooner or later. The Stagg piccolo ($273.99) is silver-plated, with a split E mechanism, an offset G and a soft case.

The big gift: $500 and up

A new voice for a sax player

Stagg soprano saxophone

An alto or tenor player can pick up a soprano quickly, because the fingerings are the same. The Stagg WS-SS225 soprano ($549) is in B-flat, with a straight neck and a curved neck to choose between, high F# and high G keys, and a bright sound. It comes with a mouthpiece, reed, ligature, cap, cloth, gloves and a soft case.

The step-up alto

Levante LV-AS4105 alto saxophone

The Levante LV-AS4105 ($959.99) has a brass body and neck, a bell engraved by hand, the high F# key, leather pads with metal resonators and a warm, even tone. It comes with a soft case, mouthpiece, reed, ligature and cap. Our alto sax buying guide has more.

• A flute with French-style keys: the Levante LV-FL5111 ($529.99) has French-style keys, closed holes, split E and offset G, and comes with a soft case with straps.
• Tenor sax: the Stagg WS-TS215 ($859) has the high F# key, an adjustable thumb rest and an ABS case.
• The dream gift: the Levante baritone sax ($2,799) comes in a flight case, with the low A and high F# keys.

Gifts beyond the gear

Some of the best woodwind gifts aren't things in a box. These are ideas to arrange locally:

• Lessons with a private teacher. A few lessons with a teacher who plays their instrument helps with tone and reeds faster than anything else. A gift card or a paid block of lessons is easy to wrap.
• Concert tickets. Hearing a great clarinetist, flutist or sax player live is inspiring. Look at your local symphony, a college music department or a jazz club.
• A reed-making class. Oboists and bassoonists who buy all their reeds often want to learn to make or adjust their own. Ask their teacher or a local music school about a workshop.
• A tune-up. A visit to a repair technician to check pads, springs and corks keeps an instrument playing well.

Buying for a woodwind player when you don't know their gear

• Find out the exact instrument. Reeds, cases and pads fit one instrument only. "Clarinet" usually means B-flat clarinet; "sax" could be soprano, alto, tenor or baritone.
• Reeds come in strengths. Peek at the box they use: the number on it (2, 2.5, 3) is the strength. Beginners usually play 2 or 2.5.
• Flutes don't use reeds or cork grease. For a flutist, choose a case, a stand or a piccolo instead.
• Oboe and bassoon reeds are personal. Choose care items, pads or a stand peg instead, and leave reed choices to them.

Frequently asked questions

What is a good gift for a clarinet player under $30?

A 3-pack of Rico B-flat clarinet reeds, a tube of cork grease and a clarinet stand. Together they make a complete small gift for well under $30.

What do you buy an oboe player?

Something that doesn't depend on their reed taste: a full set of oboe pads for their next repad, a Manhasset oboe peg for their wind stand, or cork grease. Lessons or a reed-making class are good ideas too.

What is a good gift for a flute player?

A better case, such as the MBT hardshell flute case, a flute stand, or a piccolo if they play in a band. Flutes don't use reeds or cork grease.

What is a good gift for a saxophone player?

A new case, a wireless saxophone microphone if they perform, or a soprano sax, which an alto or tenor player can learn quickly because the fingerings are the same.

Are reeds a good gift if I don't know the strength?

Yes, if you check first. Look at the box they use now for the number, and make sure the reed matches their instrument: B-flat clarinet reeds don't fit a saxophone.

When should I order woodwind gifts for Christmas?

Order by December 15 for delivery before Christmas.

Every ukulele goes out of tune. The nylon strings stretch, the wood moves with the weather, and the pegs settle as you play. Tuning before you play is part of the routine for every ukulele player, and after a few days it takes less than a minute. This guide shows you the notes, the tools and the steps, starting with the easiest way and ending with tuning by ear.

The ukulele string notes

Hold the ukulele facing you, headstock at the top. From left to right, the strings are:

G · C · E · A

Say the four notes in a sing-song voice and you get the old ukulele tune-up phrase, "My dog has fleas." Plucking G, C, E, A in order should sound just like it: down, then up, up, up. If it sounds right to that rhythm, you are close.

All four notes sit within one octave, right around middle C on a piano. That is why the ukulele sounds so light and bright, and why chords on it are so easy to finger.

How to tune a ukulele with a tuner, step by step

This is the method we recommend for every beginner. A clip-on tuner feels the vibration of the ukulele directly through the headstock, so it works even in a noisy room. A phone tuner app listens through the microphone and works well in a quiet one.

1. Get set up. Sit down and hold the ukulele the way you play it, or rest it on your lap facing up. Keep your hand off the other strings so only one rings at a time.
2. Attach and set the tuner. Clip the tuner to the headstock, or open your tuner app. Choose ukulele mode or chromatic mode, and check that it is set to A = 440 Hz (most are, out of the box).
3. Pluck the G string. It is the string nearest your face. Pluck it with your thumb over the sound hole and read the tuner.
4. Read the display. If the tuner shows G and the needle or light sits in the center, the string is in tune. Left of center, or a flat sign (♭), means it is too low. Right of center, or a sharp sign (♯), means it is too high.
5. Turn the right peg, a little at a time. Follow the string up past the nut to its peg. Turn slowly while you watch the tuner. If the note moves the wrong way, turn the other way. On the ukulele in our diagram, the G peg is the lower one on the left.
6. Tune up to the note. If the string is too high, lower it a little below the note, then bring it back up. A string that ends by being tightened holds its tuning better.
7. Repeat for C, E and A. Pluck each string, read the tuner and adjust until it shows C, then E, then A, in the center.
8. Check them all again. Tuning one string changes the pull on the neck a little, so the first string can drift. Go through all four once more, then strum: an open strum of all four strings should sound sweet and settled.

If the tuner shows the wrong letter entirely, the string is far off. Turn its peg slowly toward the right note and keep plucking; the letter will change as you pass through the notes. If it reads correctly but the string sounds much too high or very slack, see "Good to know" below about octaves.

Clip-on tuners are inexpensive and stay on the headstock in the case, ready for every practice. See our ukulele tuners.

How to tune a ukulele by ear (the fret method)

You can tune the ukulele to itself, using one string as a reference. It is handy when the tuner battery dies, and it trains your ear. The idea: press one string at a certain fret, and it plays the same note as the next open string. Tune the open string until the two sound the same.

1. Tune the A string to a reference. Use a piano's A above middle C, a tuning fork, an online tone, another instrument, or simply leave A as it is if you are only tuning the ukulele to itself.
2. E string, 5th fret, matches the open A. Press the E string just behind the 5th fret and pluck it, then pluck the open A string. Turn the E peg until the two notes match.
3. C string, 4th fret, matches the open E. Press the C string at the 4th fret (not the 5th) and match it to the open E string by turning the C peg.
4. G string, 2nd fret, matches the open A. With high-G tuning, the G string pressed at the 2nd fret plays the same A as the open A string. Turn the G peg until they match.
5. Double-check the G. Press the C string at the 7th fret: that is a G, and it should match the open G string exactly.

How to hear "the same." When two notes are close but not quite matched, you hear a slow wobble or "wah-wah" in the sound. Turn the peg slowly. The wobble gets slower as you get close and disappears when the notes match. If you cannot tell whether a note is too high or too low, loosen it a little below and bring it up slowly until it matches.

Tuning by ear gets the ukulele in tune with itself. To play along with other people or recordings, the reference note has to be right, so use a tuner, a piano or an app for that first A.

High G or low G?

Most ukuleles come strung with a high G (G4), the re-entrant tuning described above. Some players switch to a low G (G3), an octave lower. The notes are the same letters, G C E A, and the chord shapes do not change. Only the sound does.

• High G is the traditional ukulele sound: bright, close and sparkly. Strumming sounds full, and it is what nearly all beginner songbooks and lessons expect. It is the right choice for a first ukulele.
• Low G makes G the lowest string, so the strings run low to high like a guitar's. It adds a deeper bass note, which suits fingerpicking and solo arrangements. It is most popular on tenor ukuleles.
• Switching needs a low-G string. A low G is tuned an octave lower than a high G, so it needs a thicker string, often a wound one. Never try to tune a high-G string down an octave; it will be floppy and buzz. A thicker string can also need the slot in the nut widened slightly, which a repair shop can do.
• Tuning a low G by ear: the fret method above still works, but the low G at the 2nd fret is an octave below the open A. Many players find a tuner easier for this one string.

Baritone ukulele tuning: D G B E

The baritone ukulele is the largest common size, and it is tuned differently from the other three: D3, G3, B3, E4, from left to right as it faces you. These are the same notes as the four highest strings of a guitar, and on most baritones the D string is the lowest note (it is not re-entrant).

Because the tuning is different, the chord shapes give different chord names. A shape that makes C on a soprano makes G on a baritone. Guitar players feel at home right away, since the shapes match the top four guitar strings.

To tune a baritone by ear, use the same steps as a guitar's top four strings: tune the E string, press the B string at the 5th fret to match the open E, press the G string at the 4th fret to match the open B, and press the D string at the 5th fret to match the open G.

Not sure which size you have? Our parts of a ukulele guide explains the four sizes.

Why new strings won't stay in tune

A new ukulele, or a ukulele with new strings, goes flat over and over for the first days. This is not a fault. Ukulele strings are made of nylon or similar materials that stretch a long way before they settle. Each time you tune up, the string stretches a little more and the note drops again.

• Expect about a week or two of frequent retuning, sometimes in the middle of a song. It gets better every day.
• Gently stretch the strings to speed it up. Tune a string, then hook a finger under it over the sound hole and pull it gently away from the top, moving along its length. Retune, and repeat a few times. Pull gently: the goal is to stretch the string, not to strain the bridge.
• Play it. Regular playing settles new strings faster than leaving the ukulele in its case.
• Weather matters too. Big changes in temperature or humidity move the wood and the strings. A ukulele brought in from a cold car needs a few minutes to warm up before you tune it.

How to string a ukulele

Ukulele strings last a long time, but sooner or later one breaks, or they start to sound dull or will not play in tune. Here is the short version of a restring. Change one string at a time, so you always have the others as a guide to where each string goes.

1. Note how the old string is attached. Look at the bridge. Most ukuleles use one of three kinds: a tie bridge, where the string passes through a hole and is tied around itself; a slotted bridge, where a knot or bead on the string's end slips into a slot; or a pin bridge, where a knotted end is held in a hole by a small bridge pin, like on a steel-string guitar.
2. Remove the old string. Loosen the peg until the string is slack, unwind it from the post, and free it from the bridge.
3. Attach the new string at the bridge. For a tie bridge, pass the string through the hole from the front, loop it back, and wrap the short end under itself two or three times so the pull of the string locks the knot. For a slotted bridge, tie a knot in the end and slide it into the slot. For a pin bridge, tie a knot in the end, drop it into the hole, and press the pin back in firmly, then pull the string gently so the knot seats against the pin.
4. Feed it through the peg. Thread the other end through the hole in the matching tuning post. Pull it nearly tight, leaving enough slack for two or three wraps around the post.
5. Wind it neatly. Turn the peg so the string winds down the post, toward the headstock, with each wrap below the last. Keep light tension on the string with your other hand as you wind. On a slotted headstock, like a classical guitar's, the string goes through the hole in the roller inside the slot and winds neatly around the roller.
6. Seat it in the nut and tune up. Make sure the string sits in its own slot in the nut, then tune it to its note. Trim the spare end near the post, leaving a short tail.
7. Stretch and retune. Gently stretch the new string as described above, and expect to retune it often for the next several days.

Keep the order G, C, E, A. In a standard high-G set the G string is a thin one, so it is easy to swap it with the A or E by mistake. Most string sets are labeled by note and by ukulele size, so match the set to your ukulele: soprano, concert, tenor or baritone. Shop ukulele strings.

Tuning a child's first ukulele: a guide for parents

• Get a clip-on tuner. You do not need to play to keep a ukulele in tune. Clip it on, pluck, and turn the peg until the display shows the right letter in the center.
• Tune it for them at first. Young children cannot hear small differences yet. A ukulele that sounds right makes practice more fun, and that keeps them playing.
• Expect new strings to stretch. A brand-new ukulele needs retuning every day for the first week or so. That is normal and settles down.
• Keep it in its bag or case, away from heaters, sunny windows and hot cars. Steady conditions keep it in tune longer.

Good to know

• The tuner does not show the octave. Many tuners show only the letter. A string tuned an octave too high would read correctly but be dangerously tight, and could break. On a standard ukulele, all four strings should feel similar in tension. If one is very tight or very slack, it is in the wrong octave.
• Small turns only. On geared tuners, a small turn makes a small change. Pluck and check after each turn rather than spinning the peg.
• Some players tune a whole step higher, to A D F♯ B, often called D tuning. You may see it in older songbooks. G C E A is the standard today.
• Check the intonation after a restring. Play the open A, then press the A string at the 12th fret. It should play the same note an octave higher. A small difference is normal on any fretted instrument; a large one is worth showing to a repair shop.
• Tune before every practice. It takes a minute and makes everything sound better.

Ukuleles that are ready to play

Every ukulele below comes ready to tune and play. Prices and stock update automatically.

See every ukulele we carry on our ukuleles page, or shop by size: soprano, concert and tenor. For tuners, strings, bags and more, see our ukulele accessories. Learning piano too? Our guide to piano keys and notes shows where G, C, E and A sit on the keyboard. Moving on to guitar? Start with guitar string names.

Frequently asked questions

What are the ukulele strings tuned to?

Standard tuning is G C E A: G4, C4, E4 and A4, with A at 440 Hz. With the ukulele facing you, the strings read G, C, E, A from left to right. Soprano, concert and tenor ukuleles all use it; the baritone is tuned D G B E.

Why is the G string higher than the C string?

Standard ukulele tuning is re-entrant: the G string is tuned to the G above middle C, so it sounds higher than the C string beside it. That high G is what gives the ukulele its bright, chiming strum.

How do I tune a ukulele without a tuner?

Use the fret method. With the A string as your reference, press the E string at the 5th fret and match it to the open A; press the C string at the 4th fret and match the open E; press the G string at the 2nd fret and match the open A.

Should a beginner use high G or low G?

High G. It is the standard ukulele sound, most ukuleles come strung that way, and nearly all beginner lessons and songbooks expect it. Low G is a fun option to try later, especially on a tenor.

Why does my new ukulele keep going out of tune?

New nylon strings stretch for a week or two before they settle, so they keep slipping flat. Retune often, gently stretch each string, and keep playing. It gets steadier every day.

Is a baritone ukulele tuned the same as a guitar?

It is tuned D G B E, the same as the four highest strings of a guitar. Guitar chord shapes work on it and give the same chord names they do on a guitar's top four strings.

A piano keyboard looks like a long row of identical keys, but it is really one small pattern of 12 keys repeated over and over. Once you can see that pattern, every key on the instrument has a name you can work out in a second. This guide walks through the pattern, the note names, the sharps and flats, and the numbering system musicians use, in the order a piano teacher would teach them.

How many keys are on a piano?

A modern acoustic piano, upright or grand, has 88 keys. That breaks down like this:

Why 88? Piano makers kept adding notes through the 1800s as composers asked for more range, and 88 became the standard. It covers more than seven octaves, which is wider than any other common instrument and far more than most music needs. Some older pianos have 85 keys, and a few concert grands add extra low keys, but 88 is what you will find on almost every piano today.

How many keys does a keyboard have?

Keyboards and digital pianos come in several sizes. The number of keys tells you how many octaves you can play without shifting up or down:

• 88 keys. The full piano range. Almost every digital piano has 88 keys, so everything a piano student plays will fit.
• 76 keys. A little over six octaves. Enough for a great deal of piano music, in a shorter, lighter instrument.
• 61 keys. Five octaves, C to C. The most common size for portable home keyboards and a comfortable size to start learning on.
• 49, 37 and 25 keys. Mostly compact keyboards and MIDI controllers used with a computer for making music.

The names of the piano notes

Music uses only seven letter names: A, B, C, D, E, F and G. This is often called the musical alphabet. On the piano, the white keys are named with these letters, in order, from left to right. After G comes A again, a little higher, and the cycle keeps going to the top of the keyboard.

Most lessons start from C rather than A, because the C major scale uses only the white keys. Starting at any C and playing the white keys to the right, you get:

C D E F G A B C

That run of eight white keys, from one C to the next, is the shape in the diagram at the top of this page. Every C on the piano looks the same, every D looks the same, and so on, because each one sits in the same spot within the pattern of black keys.

Note names in other languages

If you searched for "music notes names" because you have seen Do, Re, Mi, here is how they line up. In many countries, including Italy, France, Spain and most of Latin America, the notes are named with syllables instead of letters:

English-speaking classrooms often use the same syllables for singing, with Ti instead of Si. In German-speaking countries, the note we call B is called H, and B means B flat. The piano keys are the same everywhere; only the names change.

The black keys: sharps and flats

The black keys sit between the white keys, and they are named after their neighbors. Two symbols do the work:

• Sharp (♯) means one key higher, the very next key to the right. The black key to the right of C is C sharp, written C♯.
• Flat (♭) means one key lower, the very next key to the left. That same black key is to the left of D, so it is also D flat, written D♭.

So every black key has two names. Which name you use depends on the music you are reading: a piece in a "sharp" key calls it C♯, and a piece in a "flat" key calls it D♭. The key you press is exactly the same. Musicians call two names for one key enharmonic spellings.

Why there is no black key between E and F, or B and C

The distance from any key to the very next key, white or black, is called a half step (or semitone). Two half steps make a whole step. Most neighboring white keys are a whole step apart, so a black key fits between them. E and F are only a half step apart, and so are B and C, so there is no room for a black key there. That gap is what splits the black keys into groups of two and three.

It also explains two names that surprise beginners: E♯ is the same key as F, and B♯ is the same key as C. Likewise F♭ is E, and C♭ is B. You will see these spellings now and then in written music.

How to find middle C

Middle C is the landmark every beginner learns first. It sits near the center of the keyboard and between the two staves of piano music. To find it:

1. Find any group of two black keys. Look along the keyboard and you will see them repeating, separated by groups of three.
2. Find C. The white key just to the left of the group of two is a C. Every group of two has a C beside it.
3. Count the Cs from the left. On an 88-key piano, the first C you meet from the bottom is C1. Count C1, C2, C3, C4. The fourth one is middle C.
4. Check it is near the middle. Middle C is a little left of the exact center of an 88-key keyboard. On most pianos, if you sit centered on the bench, it is right in front of you.

Most 61-key keyboards run from C to C and have six Cs. On those, middle C is usually the third C from the left, a little left of center. Many keyboards print a small mark or "C4" near it, and the manual will show it if you are unsure.

Octaves and note numbers

From one C to the next C is an octave. An octave covers 12 keys, 7 white and 5 black, and then the pattern repeats. A note an octave higher sounds like the same note, only higher, because it vibrates exactly twice as fast. That is why the two notes share a letter.

To say exactly which C or which A you mean, musicians add a number after the letter. This is called scientific pitch notation:

• The number goes up by one at every C. B3 is followed by C4. Everything from C4 up to B4 is in octave 4.
• The lowest notes are in octave 0. The bottom three keys of the piano are A0, A♯0/B♭0 and B0. Then C1 starts the first full octave.
• Middle C is C4. The A just above it is A4, the note an orchestra tunes to, at 440 Hz. It is key number 49 on an 88-key piano.
• The top key is C8, the only key in octave 8.

Because 88 keys is not a whole number of octaves, the keyboard starts on A and ends on C: three keys at the bottom, seven full octaves of 12 (84 keys), and one C at the top. 3 + 84 + 1 = 88.

How to remember the pattern

You do not need to memorize 88 keys. You need two landmarks and the alphabet. These tricks are what teachers use with young students, and they work for adults too:

• C sits to the left of the two. Every white key just left of a pair of black keys is a C.
• D is the dog in the doghouse. D is the white key in the middle of the two black keys, tucked between them like a dog between two doghouses.
• F sits to the left of the three. Every white key just left of a group of three black keys is an F.
• G and A are inside the three. The two white keys between the three black keys are G and A.
• Count up the alphabet. From any landmark, move right and say the next letter: C, D, E, F, G, A, B, and back to C. Move left and say the letters backward.
• Practice blind. Close your eyes, feel for a group of two black keys, and play the C. Then do the same for F. A week of this and you will never hunt for a note again.

The notes on the music staff

The same note names appear on written music. Piano music uses two staves: the treble clef on top, mostly for the right hand, and the bass clef below, mostly for the left. Middle C sits on its own short line between them. These classic sayings help with the rest:

• Treble clef lines, bottom to top: E G B D F, "Every Good Boy Does Fine."
• Treble clef spaces, bottom to top: F A C E, which spells "FACE."
• Bass clef lines, bottom to top: G B D F A, "Good Boys Do Fine Always."
• Bass clef spaces, bottom to top: A C E G, "All Cows Eat Grass."

Digital pianos and keyboards

Every idea on this page works the same on an acoustic piano, a digital piano or a portable keyboard. The keys, the black-key pattern and the note names never change. What changes is the number of keys and how the keys feel:

• Weighted keys. Digital pianos usually have 88 weighted or "hammer action" keys that feel heavier in the bass and lighter in the treble, like an acoustic piano. This helps a student build the finger strength piano lessons expect.
• Touch sensitivity. Most keyboards play louder when you press harder, and softer when you press gently. It is worth having from the start, because playing with feeling is part of learning.
• Full-size keys. Keys the same width as a piano's let your hand learn real distances. Very small toy keyboards use narrower keys.
• A sustain pedal. Most keyboards have a jack for one. It does the job of a piano's right pedal and is used in a lot of beginner music.

A 61-key keyboard is a friendly, affordable way to start, and many young students begin on one. As pieces grow wider, many teachers suggest moving to 88 weighted keys. Ask your teacher what they prefer for your stage.

Good to know

• The notes are the same on every piano. A C on a grand piano is the same C as on a 61-key keyboard. Only the number of Cs changes.
• Some music software numbers octaves differently. A few programs call middle C "C3" instead of C4. The key is the same; only the label changes. Most teachers and books use C4.
• The black keys are not "extra" notes. They are full members of the 12-note pattern. Many beginner songs use them, and some, like a scale on only the black keys, sound lovely right away.
• Sit at the right height. Forearms level with the keys makes learning easier. An adjustable piano bench lets every player in the family get there.

Shop keyboards and piano gear

Browse our keyboards department for keyboards, digital pianos, synthesizers and accessories, and see our digital pianos. For a comfortable setup at home, we carry height-adjustable piano benches and keyboard stands and benches. Want to see what is inside the instrument? Read our parts of a piano guide. Learning another instrument too? See how to tune a ukulele.

Frequently asked questions

How many keys are on a piano?

A standard piano has 88 keys: 52 white keys and 36 black keys. The lowest is A0 and the highest is C8. Portable keyboards often have 61 or 76 keys.

What are the names of the piano keys?

The white keys are named A, B, C, D, E, F and G, repeating up the keyboard. The black keys are sharps and flats: C♯/D♭, D♯/E♭, F♯/G♭, G♯/A♭ and A♯/B♭. Each black key has two names.

Where is middle C on a piano?

Find a group of two black keys; the white key just to its left is a C. On an 88-key piano, middle C is the fourth C from the left, near the middle of the keyboard. Its full name is C4, and it is key number 40.

Why are there no black keys between B and C, or E and F?

Those white keys are only a half step apart, the smallest step on the piano, so there is no note between them. Every other pair of neighboring white keys is a whole step apart and has a black key in the middle.

What is an octave on the piano?

The distance from one note to the next note with the same name, such as C to the next C. An octave spans 12 keys, 7 white and 5 black. The higher note vibrates twice as fast, so the two sound alike.

Is a 61-key keyboard enough to learn piano?

Yes, for beginners. Five octaves covers most early lesson music. As the pieces get wider, many teachers recommend moving to 88 weighted keys, which also feel more like an acoustic piano.

Walk into a music store and the wall of guitars can look like a hundred different instruments. In fact almost every guitar belongs to a handful of families. Once you know how they differ (how they make their sound, what strings they use, how big they are) the choice gets much simpler. This guide takes the families one at a time, answers the comparisons people search for most, and ends with a quick way to decide which type to buy.

Steel-string acoustic guitars

When most people picture "a guitar," this is it. A steel-string acoustic has a hollow wooden body with a round sound hole, six steel strings, and a narrow neck that joins the body at about the 14th fret. The strings end at a bridge on the top, held in place by small bridge pins. When you strum, the strings shake the thin wooden top, and the hollow body makes that sound loud enough to fill a room with no electricity at all.

The sound is bright, ringing and full, which is why the steel-string acoustic is the backbone of folk, country, pop, rock songwriting and campfire singalongs. It can be strummed hard with a pick or played gently with the fingers.

Steel-string acoustics come in several body shapes. The shape changes how loud the guitar is, how much bass it has and how comfortable it feels in your lap.

• Dreadnought. The most popular shape. A big body with broad, square shoulders and only a gentle waist. It gives a strong, booming sound with plenty of bass, made for strumming chords and for bluegrass. It is named after a class of large British battleships from the early 1900s.
• Auditorium and grand auditorium. A little smaller than a dreadnought, with a narrower waist so the guitar sits snugly on your leg. The sound is balanced: clear highs, solid lows, nothing too heavy. A great all-rounder for strumming and fingerpicking alike.
• Concert and orchestra. Close cousins of the auditorium shape, a bit smaller again, with a clear, even voice that suits fingerstyle playing. Players with a smaller frame often find these the most comfortable full-size acoustics.
• Parlor. A small, narrow, old-fashioned body shape that was popular in the 1800s. It has a focused, intimate sound with less bass, perfect for blues, quiet fingerpicking and playing on the couch.
• Jumbo. The biggest acoustic of all, with a wide, rounded lower body. It has a big, rich, room-filling sound and looks dramatic on stage. Because it is so large, it suits taller players best.

One more feature to look for is the cutaway: a scoop cut out of the body just below the neck. It lets your hand reach the highest frets, which lead players and fingerstyle players love. A guitar without a cutaway is simply called "non-cutaway."

For a labeled tour of each part, from the headstock to the bridge pins, see our guide to the parts of a guitar.

Acoustic-electric guitars

An acoustic-electric guitar is a regular acoustic with a pickup built inside it. Unplugged, it sounds and plays just like any acoustic. Plugged in with a cable, it can play through an amplifier or a PA system, so you can be heard on stage, at church, at an open mic, or on a recording.

• The pickup. Most use a thin strip called an under-saddle pickup, hidden beneath the white saddle on the bridge. It feels the strings' vibration and turns it into an electrical signal.
• The preamp. A small control panel on the upper side of the body. It usually has volume and tone controls, and many include a built-in tuner, which is very handy.
• The output jack. Usually built into the strap button at the bottom of the guitar, where you plug in a standard instrument cable.

Most acoustic-electrics have a cutaway, because players who perform also tend to play high up the neck. If you think you might ever play for other people, an acoustic-electric costs only a little more and keeps the door open. Browse our acoustic-electric guitars.

Classical guitars (nylon strings)

A classical guitar is an acoustic guitar built for nylon strings. It is the guitar of classical music, flamenco, bossa nova and Latin music, and it is often the very first guitar a young child plays. You can recognize it at a glance:

• Slotted headstock. The headstock has two open slots, and the strings wind around rollers that run sideways through it.
• Tie bridge. There are no bridge pins. Each string is tied in a loop around the bridge.
• Wider, flatter neck. About 2 inches (52 mm) across at the nut, compared with about 1 11/16 inches (43 mm) on most steel-string acoustics. The extra room helps with fingerpicking.
• Neck joins at the 12th fret. On a traditional classical guitar the body starts at the 12th fret rather than the 14th.
• Usually no pickguard. Classical players pluck with their fingertips and nails, not a pick.

The sound is warm, round and soft, and the strings are much easier to press down. Many classical guitars also come in 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 sizes for children. A flamenco guitar is a close relative, built lighter, with the strings set lower, for a brighter, punchier sound. Some classical guitars come with a pickup and a cutaway, so they can be plugged in on stage. See all our classical guitars.

Acoustic vs classical guitar: what is the difference?

A classical guitar is an acoustic guitar: both are hollow and make their own sound. When people say "acoustic vs classical," they mean a steel-string acoustic compared with a nylon-string classical. Here is how they differ:

• Strings. Steel on an acoustic; nylon on a classical. This is the big one, and it causes most of the other differences.
• Sound. A steel-string acoustic is bright, loud and ringing. A classical guitar is warm, soft and mellow.
• Feel. Nylon strings are lower in tension and softer, so they are kinder to new fingertips. Steel strings take a few weeks of practice before the fingertips toughen up.
• Neck. A classical neck is wider and flatter. A steel-string neck is slimmer and rounder, which many people with small hands find easier for chords.
• Headstock and bridge. A classical has a slotted headstock and a tie bridge; an acoustic has a solid headstock and bridge pins.
• Music. Choose a steel-string acoustic for pop, rock, country and folk strumming. Choose a classical for classical pieces, flamenco, Latin and gentle fingerstyle, or for a young beginner.

The string names and tuning are exactly the same on both: E, A, D, G, B, E. Our guide to the guitar string names explains them.

Nylon vs steel strings

Because the string type decides so much, it is worth knowing what each one does.

• Nylon strings. The three thin strings are plain nylon. The three thick strings have a soft core wrapped in fine metal wire. They pull on the guitar with far less force than steel, feel soft under the fingers, and give a warm, gentle tone. Most are tied at the bridge.
• Steel strings. Steel wire, with the thicker strings wrapped in bronze or a similar metal on acoustics (that is the golden color) or in nickel on electrics. They are brighter, louder and hold their tune firmly. Each has a small ball on the end that sits under a bridge pin or in the bridge.
• Good to know. Never put steel strings on a guitar built for nylon. Steel pulls much harder and can damage the neck and bridge. And nylon strings will not work on a steel-string guitar's pin bridge, or on an electric guitar's magnetic pickups. Always buy the strings your guitar was made for.

When it is time for a fresh set, our step-by-step guide to restringing a guitar walks you through it, and you can browse guitar strings in our shop.

Solid-body electric guitars

An electric guitar has a solid wooden body, so on its own it is quiet. Under the strings sit pickups: magnets wrapped in fine wire that turn the vibration of the steel strings into a signal. That signal goes through a cable to an amplifier, which makes the sound. Change the amp settings or add effects pedals and one electric guitar can sound clean and sparkly, warm and jazzy, or loud and distorted.

Electric guitars usually have lighter strings and a slimmer neck than acoustics, so they are often the easiest guitars to press down and play. Remember to budget for an amplifier; a small practice amp is enough for home. Three body styles cover most electric guitars you will see:

• S-style (double cutaway). A contoured body with two horns, three single-coil pickups and a five-way switch to choose between them, and often a vibrato bar for bending notes. Bright, clear and very versatile, from funk and pop to blues and rock. Probably the most copied electric guitar shape in the world.
• T-style (single cutaway, flat slab body). A simple, flat body with one cutaway, a bridge pickup mounted in a metal plate, and usually a second pickup near the neck. Famous for a bright, punchy "twang" in country, rock and indie music. Sturdy and easy to keep in tune.
• Single-cut (rounded single cutaway). A thicker body with a rounded shape and one cutaway, usually with two humbucking pickups and a fixed bridge. The sound is thick, warm and long-sustaining, a classic choice for rock, blues and hard rock.

Single-coil or humbucker? A single-coil pickup has one coil of wire and gives a bright, glassy, detailed sound. A humbucker has two coils side by side, which cancels the hum that single coils can pick up and gives a fuller, warmer, louder sound. Many guitars mix the two, and some let you "split" a humbucker to sound like a single coil.

Want to learn every knob and switch? See our guide to the parts of an electric guitar, or browse our electric guitars and amplifiers.

Semi-hollow and hollow-body electric guitars

Between the solid electric and the acoustic sits a family of electrics with air inside.

• Semi-hollow. A thin body with hollow wings on each side and a solid block of wood down the middle, usually with two f-shaped sound holes. It sounds warmer, airier and more open than a solid body, yet the center block keeps it from howling with feedback when you turn up. A favorite for blues, jazz, soul, indie and classic rock. Some guitars use a "chambered" body, with hollow pockets carved inside, for a similar effect.
• Hollow-body (archtop). A fully hollow body, often deeper, with an arched top and f-holes. It gives the rich, round, woody tone of classic jazz and rockabilly. Because it is hollow, it can feed back at high volume, so it shines at gentler levels.

Both plug into an amplifier like any electric guitar. They have a little acoustic sound of their own when unplugged, but not enough to play for a room.

Bass guitars

The bass guitar looks like a long electric guitar with fewer, thicker strings. A standard bass has four strings, tuned E, A, D, G, the same names as the four thickest guitar strings but one octave lower. It has a longer neck (a standard "long scale" bass is about 34 inches from the nut to the bridge saddles), bigger tuning keys, and pickups built for low notes. It plays through a bass amplifier.

• 4-string bass. The standard, and the best place to start.
• 5-string bass. Adds a low B string below the E for deeper notes, popular in modern rock, gospel and metal.
• Short-scale bass. A shorter neck, around 30 inches, so the frets are closer together. Comfortable for younger players and anyone with smaller hands.
• Fretless bass. No metal frets, for a smooth, singing, sliding tone.
• Acoustic bass. A large hollow body that makes some sound of its own, usually with a pickup to be heard in a band.

Want to know every part? See our labeled guide to the parts of a bass guitar, or browse our bass guitars.

Bass guitar vs guitar: what is the difference?

• Job in the band. The guitar plays chords and melodies. The bass plays the low notes underneath, locking in with the drums to give the music its groove and its foundation. You often feel the bass more than you hear it.
• Strings. A guitar has six strings (E A D G B E). A bass usually has four (E A D G), thicker and tuned one octave lower.
• Size. A bass has a longer neck and wider fret spacing, so it takes a bit more stretch.
• How it is played. Bass players mostly play one note at a time, plucking with two fingers or a pick. Guitarists strum chords as well as single notes.
• Learning. Neither is "easier": both reward practice. Bass lets beginners join a band quickly, because a simple bass line sounds great. Many skills carry over from one to the other.

12-string guitars

A 12-string guitar has six pairs of strings instead of six single strings. You fret and strum each pair as if it were one string. On the four thickest pairs (E, A, D, G), one string is tuned an octave higher than its partner; on the B and high E pairs, both strings play the same note. The result is a shimmering, chiming, chorus-like sound heard on countless folk-rock and pop records.

You can spot one by its longer headstock with twelve tuning pegs, six on each side, and a bridge with twelve pins. Most are acoustic, though electric 12-strings exist too. A 12-string takes a little more finger strength and tuning time, so most players add one after learning on a 6-string.

Travel guitars and 3/4 guitars

• 3/4 guitar. A scaled-down guitar, roughly three quarters of full size, with a shorter neck and a smaller body. It fits many children from about 8 to 12, and plenty of adults like one for the couch. Our guide to choosing the right size guitar for a child has the full size chart, including 1/4 and 1/2 sizes.
• Travel guitar. A compact acoustic made to go places: camping, the dorm, the car, the airplane. Many are shaped like a small dreadnought, so you still get a full, familiar sound in a body that fits overhead bins and backpacks.

Both use the same tuning and the same chord shapes as a full-size guitar, so everything you learn carries straight over. Browse our child-size guitars.

Resonator and lap steel guitars

• Resonator guitar. An acoustic guitar with one or more metal cones, like loudspeaker cones, built into the body under a shiny metal cover. The cone makes the guitar loud and gives a bright, metallic, ringing voice heard in blues, bluegrass and country. Round-neck resonators are played like a normal guitar. Square-neck resonators are laid flat on the lap and played with a slide bar.
• Lap steel guitar. A guitar played flat across the lap. Instead of pressing the strings to the frets, you glide a smooth steel bar along them, which gives the sweet, crying, sliding sound of Hawaiian music, western swing and country. It is usually tuned to an open chord and played through an amplifier. Its bigger cousin, the pedal steel, is a staple of country music.

Ukulele vs guitar

The ukulele is a smaller relative of the guitar, and it is a great first instrument in its own right. Here is how the two compare:

• Strings. A ukulele has four nylon strings; a guitar has six. Standard ukulele tuning is G, C, E, A, with the G string tuned higher than you might expect, which gives the uke its bright, happy sound.
• Size. Ukuleles come in soprano, concert, tenor and baritone sizes, all much smaller than a guitar, so they suit small hands and small children.
• Learning. With four soft strings and small chord shapes, many people play their first song on a ukulele within days.
• Skills carry over. A ukulele is tuned like the four thinnest guitar strings with a capo at the 5th fret, so the chord shapes are the same; only their names change. The baritone ukulele is tuned D, G, B, E, exactly like the top four guitar strings.
• Range. A guitar has more strings and a lower, fuller range, so it can play bass notes and chords together. That is the reason many players move on to guitar after the uke.

Learn the ukulele from top to bottom in our guide to the parts of a ukulele, or browse our ukuleles.

Which type of guitar should I buy?

Start with the music you want to play. A guitar that sounds like your favorite songs is the one you will pick up every day. Then work through these steps:

1. Pick the sound. Singer-songwriter, country, folk or worship: a steel-string acoustic or acoustic-electric. Rock, blues, metal, funk or pop lead guitar: an electric. Classical, flamenco, Latin or gentle fingerstyle: a classical guitar. Want to lock in with a drummer: a bass.
2. Check the size. Adults and most teens play full size. Children from about 8 to 12 often fit a 3/4 size, and younger children a 1/2 or 1/4. If you are smaller in frame, try an auditorium, concert or orchestra body rather than a large dreadnought or jumbo.
3. Think about your fingers. For a young child, nylon strings are the gentlest start. For an older beginner, an electric's light strings and slim neck are the easiest to press; a steel-string acoustic takes a few weeks of fingertip toughening, and then it is plain sailing.
4. Decide if you will plug in. If you might play for other people, choose an acoustic-electric. If you choose an electric or a bass, plan for an amplifier and a cable.
5. Choose left- or right-handed. Most people strum with their dominant hand. Left-handed players can find left-handed models in our left-handed acoustic and left-handed electric sections.
6. Add the basics. A clip-on tuner, a few picks and a gig bag go a long way. See our guitar tuners.

There is no wrong answer here. Plenty of players own one of each type, and the skills you learn on one guitar carry over to all the others.

Our picks for each type of guitar

One in-stock favorite for each type. Prices and stock update automatically.

See the full range in our steel-string acoustic guitars, solid-body electric guitars and 4-string bass guitars, or start from all our guitars.

Keep learning

• Guitar chords for beginners: the first chords to learn on any type of guitar.
• How to read guitar tabs: the simple notation most players learn from.
• Guitar string names: E A D G B E, and how to remember them.
• How to tune a ukulele: if a uke is your first step.

Frequently asked questions

What are the main types of guitars?

The four main types are the steel-string acoustic, the classical guitar with nylon strings, the electric guitar and the bass guitar. Within those you will find acoustic-electrics, semi-hollow and hollow-body electrics, 12-strings, travel and 3/4 sizes, and specialists such as resonator and lap steel guitars.

What is the difference between an acoustic and a classical guitar?

A classical guitar is a type of acoustic that uses nylon strings. Compared with a steel-string acoustic, it has a wider, flatter neck, a slotted headstock, a tie bridge and a warmer, softer sound, and its strings are gentler on the fingers.

Which type of guitar is easiest for a beginner?

It depends on the player. Young children usually do best on a nylon-string classical guitar in the right size. Teens and adults often find an electric guitar the easiest to press down, while a steel-string acoustic is the most popular choice for singing along. The best first guitar is the one that plays the music you love.

Is bass guitar easier than guitar?

Neither is simply easier. A bass has four strings and mostly plays one note at a time, so beginners can join a band quickly, but the strings are thicker and the neck is longer. A guitar has six strings and plays chords. Both reward regular practice.

Can you put steel strings on a classical guitar?

No. A classical guitar is built for the lower pull of nylon strings, and steel strings can damage its neck and bridge. Always use the type of strings your guitar was made for.

Should I learn ukulele or guitar first?

Either works. The ukulele's four soft strings and small size make it quick to learn, especially for young children, and its chord shapes carry over to the guitar. If the music you love is guitar music, starting on guitar is a great choice too.

Tab, short for tablature, is a way of writing guitar music that shows exactly where to put your fingers. You do not need to read standard sheet music to use it, which is why most guitarists learn their first riffs from tab. It takes about ten minutes to understand and a few days of practice to read comfortably. Everything here uses standard tuning, E A D G B E from the thickest string to the thinnest; if those letters are new, see our guide to guitar string names.

How to read the six lines

The six horizontal lines are the six strings. The trick that confuses everyone at first: the order looks upside down. The top line is the high e string, the thinnest one, which is the string closest to the floor when you hold the guitar. The bottom line is the low E string, the thickest one, closest to your face.

It makes sense once you picture it. Lay the guitar flat on your lap with the strings facing up and look down at it. The thinnest string is now at the top of your view, exactly like the tab. Many tabs print the string names at the start of each line to help you:

• e: 1st string, high E (thinnest), top line. A small "e" is often used to tell it apart from the low E.
• B: 2nd string.
• G: 3rd string.
• D: 4th string.
• A: 5th string.
• E: 6th string, low E (thickest), bottom line.

If a tab uses a different tuning, such as drop D, it will usually say so at the top, and the bottom line will be labeled D instead of E.

How to read the numbers

1. Find the line. The line a number sits on tells you which string to play.
2. Read the number as a fret. A 3 means press the string just behind the 3rd fret wire. A 5 means the 5th fret. Count frets from the nut at the top of the neck: the space nearest the nut is the 1st fret.
3. 0 means open. Play the string without pressing it anywhere.
4. Play the notes from left to right, in order, picking only the string shown.
5. Play stacked numbers together. When numbers line up vertically, strum or pick those strings at the same time.
6. Choose your own fingers. Tab shows the fret, not the finger. A good default is "one finger per fret": in a small area of the neck, your index finger covers the lowest fret, the middle finger the next, and so on.

Here is the same idea in plain text, the way tab often appears online. This is the practice riff from later in this guide:

e|--------------------------|--------------------------|
B|--------------------------|--------------------------|
G|--------------------------|--------------------------|
D|---------------------0----|-2------------------------|
A|----------------0h2-------|------2----0--------------|
E|-0----0----3--------------|----------------3----0----|

Read it like this: open low E twice, low E at the 3rd fret, then the open A string with a hammer-on to the 2nd fret, then the open D string. The second bar comes back down: D string 2nd fret, A string 2nd fret, open A, low E 3rd fret, open low E.

What tab does not tell you: timing

This is the one real limit of tab, and it is worth knowing early. Plain tab shows which notes to play and in what order, but usually not how long each note lasts. The spaces between numbers can hint at the rhythm, since notes written close together are often played quickly, but the spacing is rough and differs from writer to writer.

• Listen to the song. The best way to get the timing right is to know how the music sounds. Play along with the recording, slowly at first.
• Bar lines help. The vertical lines through the tab split it into measures (bars). In most songs each bar is four beats long, so the notes inside one bar fill four counts.
• Some tabs add rhythm. Guitar books and many tab programs print rhythm marks above or below the tab, or show standard notation and tab together. If a tab has them, they tell you the exact timing.
• Repeat signs and notes. Text like "x4" at the end of a line means play that part four times.

Guitar tab symbols and techniques

Letters and marks between the numbers tell you how to play them. These are the ones you will meet most often.

• h, hammer-on. 5h7: pick the 5th fret, then bring another finger down hard on the 7th fret of the same string without picking again. The second note sounds from the force of your finger.
• p, pull-off. 7p5: the reverse. With fingers on both the 7th and 5th frets, pick the 7th, then pull that finger off with a slight downward flick so the 5th fret sounds.
• / slide up. 5/7: pick the 5th fret and slide the same finger up to the 7th while keeping pressure, so the note glides up.
• \ slide down. 7\5: the same, sliding down from the 7th fret to the 5th.
• b, bend. 7b9: pick the 7th fret and push the string sideways across the fretboard until it sounds like the 9th fret would. Some tabs write it 7b(9), or "full" for a whole-step bend and "1/2" for a half step. An r after a bend (7b9r7) means release it back down.
• ~ vibrato. 7~~~: hold the note and shake it slightly in pitch by rocking or gently bending the string back and forth. More squiggles usually means a longer or wider vibrato.
• x, muted note. Rest your fretting hand lightly on the strings without pressing them down and pick. You get a percussive "chick" with no clear note. Often used in strumming patterns and funk rhythms.
• PM, palm muting. Usually written above the tab with a dashed line: rest the edge of your picking hand on the strings right next to the bridge for a short, chunky sound.
• Numbers in angle brackets, such as <12>, usually mean a natural harmonic: touch the string lightly right over the fret wire, without pressing, and pick for a bell-like tone.

Tab writers do not all use exactly the same marks. Most tabs that use anything unusual include a short key at the top. When in doubt, check the key, then listen to the recording.

How chords look in tab

When numbers stand in a vertical stack, play them all at once. That is how tab writes a chord. Read the stack from the bottom line up and you get the same shape you would see in a chord chart, from the thickest string to the thinnest.

• G major reads 3, 0, 0, 0, 2, 3 from the top line down: low E 3rd fret, A 2nd fret, D, G and B open, high e 3rd fret.
• C major reads 0, 1, 0, 2, 3 from the top down, with nothing on the low E line, so you leave the low E out.
• D major reads 2, 3, 2, 0 on the top four lines; strum from the D string only.
• E minor reads 0, 0, 0, 2, 2, 0: all six strings, with fingers on the 2nd fret of the A and D strings.

Song tabs often skip the stacks and just print chord names above the lines, or above the lyrics, for you to strum. For the fingering of every common beginner chord, see our guitar chord chart for beginners. If the notes of a chord are written one after another instead of stacked, pick them one at a time; guitarists call that an arpeggio, and it is how many fingerpicked songs are written.

Practice riff: read your first tab

This short riff is written for this guide. It sits in the key of E minor and uses only open strings and the first few frets, so it suits an acoustic or an electric guitar.

1. Tune your guitar to standard tuning. A clip-on tuner makes this quick; see our guitar tuners.
2. Find the bottom three lines. Every note is on the low E, A or D string.
3. Bar 1: pick the open low E twice, then the 3rd fret of the low E with your ring finger. Pick the open A string and hammer your middle finger onto its 2nd fret. Finish with the open D string.
4. Bar 2: middle finger on the 2nd fret of the D string, then the 2nd fret of the A string, then the open A. Ring finger on the 3rd fret of the low E, then the open low E.
5. Play it slowly and evenly, one pick stroke for each number (the hammer-on note gets no extra pick). Count a steady beat out loud if it helps.
6. Loop it. When the two bars feel smooth, play them over and over without stopping, and speed up a little at a time.

Good to know

• Bass tab has four lines, for the four strings of a bass guitar, read the same way: G on top, low E on the bottom. Ukulele tab has four lines too.
• Tab and chord charts work together. Tab is best for riffs, melodies and solos; chord boxes are quicker for strummed songs. Most guitarists use both.
• Tab is a great start, and standard notation is a bonus. Many players read only tab their whole lives. If you later study music formally, learning standard notation adds rhythm and theory, and the two are often printed together.
• Check a tab against the recording. Tabs written by other players are sometimes simplified or slightly off. If something sounds wrong, trust your ears and the song.
• Electric guitar techniques such as bends and vibrato are easier with the lighter strings found on most electric guitars, and an amp lets you hear every note clearly.

Guitars to read tab on

Tab works the same on any six-string guitar. These are popular choices in stock now. Prices and stock update automatically.

Browse all electric guitars, steel-string acoustics and electric guitar amplifiers. For a fresh set of strings, see guitar strings; for picks, our guitar picks. Buying for a young player? Our guide to choosing the right size guitar for a child helps.

Keep learning

• Guitar chords for beginners: the chord chart and your first chords.
• Guitar string names: E, A, D, G, B, E and how to remember them.
• Parts of a guitar and parts of an electric guitar: labeled diagrams, including the frets and nut.
• How to restring a guitar: new strings make bends and slides feel smoother.

Frequently asked questions

What do the numbers on guitar tabs mean?

Each number is a fret. The line it sits on is the string. 0 means play that string open, 3 means press the string at the 3rd fret, and so on.

Is the top line of guitar tab the high E or the low E?

The top line is the high e, the thinnest string. The bottom line is the low E, the thickest string. Picture the guitar lying flat in your lap and looking down at it.

How do you read chords in guitar tab?

Numbers stacked in a vertical column are played together as a chord. Read the stack to see which fret to press on each string; a string with no number in the stack is not played.

Does guitar tab show rhythm?

Usually not. Plain tab shows which notes to play and their order, but not how long each one lasts. Listen to the song for the timing, or use a tab that includes rhythm marks or standard notation.

What do h and p mean in guitar tab?

h is a hammer-on: pick a note, then bring a finger down on a higher fret of the same string without picking again. p is a pull-off: pick a note, then pull that finger off so a lower fretted or open note sounds.

Is tab easier than sheet music?

For guitar, yes, for most beginners. Tab shows exactly where to put your fingers, so you can play a riff the same day you start. Sheet music shows rhythm and theory better, and many guitar books print both together.

Chords are the fastest way to start making real music on guitar. A chord is three or more notes played together, and with only a handful of them you can strum along with most of the songs you know. The chart above shows the essential "open" chords. They are called open chords because they mix fretted notes with strings played open, close to the headstock where the strings are easiest to press. Every chord on this page uses standard tuning: E, A, D, G, B, E from the thickest string to the thinnest. If those letters are new to you, our guide to guitar string names explains them, and a clip-on tuner gets you there in a minute.

How to read a chord box

A chord box (also called a chord diagram) is a little map of the neck. Imagine standing your guitar up in front of you with the strings facing you. That is the view the box shows.

• Vertical lines are the strings. The line on the far left is the thickest string, low E. The line on the far right is the thinnest, high E. The letters under the box name each one.
• Horizontal lines are the frets. The thick bar at the top is the nut, at the top of the neck. The space just below it is the 1st fret, the next space is the 2nd fret, and so on.
• Dots show where to press. Put your fingertip in that space, just behind the metal fret wire, not on top of it.
• The number in the dot is the finger. 1 is your index finger, 2 your middle, 3 your ring and 4 your pinky. The thumb is not numbered; it rests behind the neck.
• O above a string means play it open, with no finger on it.
• X above a string means leave it out. Do not strum it, or rest a finger lightly on it to keep it quiet.
• A long bar across two or more strings means one finger presses all of them at once. That is a barre. The small F chord on our chart uses a tiny one.

Your first three chords: G, C and D

G, C and D belong together. In the key of G, they are the three main chords, so they sound right next to each other in almost any order. Learn them in this order.

1. G major. Middle finger (2) on the 3rd fret of the low E string. Index finger (1) on the 2nd fret of the A string. Ring finger (3) on the 3rd fret of the high E string. Strum all six strings. Some players use fingers 3, 2 and 4 instead; both are standard, and the 3-2-4 version makes the change to C a little easier later.
2. C major. Ring finger (3) on the 3rd fret of the A string. Middle finger (2) on the 2nd fret of the D string. Index finger (1) on the 1st fret of the B string. The G and high E strings are open. Strum from the A string down, and leave out the low E.
3. D major. Index finger (1) on the 2nd fret of the G string. Ring finger (3) on the 3rd fret of the B string. Middle finger (2) on the 2nd fret of the high E string. Strum only the top four strings, starting from the open D string. The fingers make a small triangle.
4. Check each chord string by string. Hold the shape and pick each string one at a time. Every one you are meant to play should ring clearly. If one buzzes or sounds dead, adjust the finger nearest it, then strum the whole chord again.
5. Add E minor. Middle finger (2) on the 2nd fret of the A string, ring finger (3) on the 2nd fret of the D string, and strum all six strings. It is the easiest chord on the chart, and it sounds great after G, C and D.

Easy chord progressions to practice

A chord progression is just the order you play chords in. These are some of the most common progressions in popular music. You will hear them in countless songs, so once you can play them smoothly you can play along with a lot of music. Strum each chord four times, then move to the next.

The next chords: A, E, Am and Dm

• A major. Fingers 1, 2 and 3 side by side on the 2nd fret of the D, G and B strings. Leave out the low E. The fingers are crowded; angle them slightly so each one sits in the fret space. Some players use fingers 2, 1, 3 instead, which also works.
• E major. Middle finger (2) on the 2nd fret of the A string, ring finger (3) on the 2nd fret of the D string, index finger (1) on the 1st fret of the G string. Strum all six.
• A minor (Am). The E shape moved one string thinner: middle (2) on the 2nd fret of the D string, ring (3) on the 2nd fret of the G string, index (1) on the 1st fret of the B string. Leave out the low E.
• D minor (Dm). Middle (2) on the 2nd fret of the G string, ring (3) on the 3rd fret of the B string, index (1) on the 1st fret of the high E string. Strum the top four strings only.

Major or minor? A major chord sounds bright and settled; a minor chord, written with a small "m", sounds darker or sadder. The difference is a single note. Compare E and Em: lift your index finger off the G string and E major becomes E minor.

Seventh chords: E7, A7, D7 and G7

A seventh chord (properly a "dominant seventh") adds one extra note to a major chord. It gives a slightly bluesy, unfinished sound that pulls toward the next chord. They are also some of the easiest shapes on the chart.

• E7. E major with the ring finger lifted: middle (2) on the 2nd fret of the A string, index (1) on the 1st fret of the G string. Strum all six.
• A7. Middle (2) on the 2nd fret of the D string, ring (3) on the 2nd fret of the B string, with the G string open between them. Leave out the low E.
• D7. Middle (2) on the 2nd fret of the G string, index (1) on the 1st fret of the B string, ring (3) on the 2nd fret of the high E string. Top four strings only.
• G7. Ring (3) on the 3rd fret of the low E string, middle (2) on the 2nd fret of the A string, index (1) on the 1st fret of the high E string. Strum all six. G7 leads beautifully into C.

The F chord, made easy

The full F chord is a barre chord: the index finger presses all six strings at the 1st fret. It takes most beginners a few weeks to make it ring, so start with one of these two shapes. Both play the top four strings only.

• Fmaj7 (easy F). Ring (3) on the 3rd fret of the D string, middle (2) on the 2nd fret of the G string, index (1) on the 1st fret of the B string, high E open. It sounds soft and dreamy, and it fits in place of F in most beginner songs.
• Small F. The same shape, but your index finger lies flat across both the B and high E strings at the 1st fret. Roll the finger slightly onto its bony side and keep your thumb low behind the neck. This is the stepping stone to the full barre chord.

How to change chords smoothly

Every beginner can hold a chord long before they can change to the next one in time. Changing is the real skill, and it improves fastest with these habits.

1. Practice pairs. Pick two chords, such as G and C, and switch back and forth slowly. Look at which fingers move and which can stay.
2. Find the anchor fingers. Some changes share a finger. From C to Am, only your ring finger moves; your index and middle fingers stay put. From E to Am, the whole shape simply moves over one string. Moving fewer fingers means faster changes.
3. Move all the fingers together. Lift the whole shape a little and land it as a unit, instead of placing one finger at a time.
4. Try the one-minute drill. Set a timer for one minute and count how many clean changes you make between two chords. Write the number down and try to beat it tomorrow. It is a simple, widely used exercise, and the numbers climb quickly.
5. Keep strumming, even if the change is late. In a song, the beat matters more than a perfect chord. If you are not ready, strum the open strings on the last beat while your fingers move. Players do this all the time.

Strumming basics

Strumming is your right hand's job (left hand if you play left-handed). Hold a pick between your thumb and the side of your index finger with only the tip showing, or strum with the side of your thumb. A medium or thin pick is easiest for strumming; browse our guitar picks.

• Strum from the wrist, not the elbow. Keep the motion loose, like shaking water off your hand.
• Down strums move from the thickest string toward the thinnest. Up strums come back the other way, usually catching only the thinner strings.
• Start with four down strums per chord, one on each beat, counting "1, 2, 3, 4". Keep it steady before you add anything else.
• Then try a common pattern: down, down-up, up-down-up (D, D U, U D U). Count it "1, 2 and, and 4 and". Keep your hand moving down and up all the time, and simply miss the strings on the beats you skip.
• Start the strum on the right string. For C, start on the A string; for D and Dm, start on the open D string. That is what the X marks are for.

Good to know

• Sore fingertips are normal for the first two or three weeks. Short, daily sessions build calluses faster and more comfortably than one long session. Nylon strings, like those on a classical guitar, are gentler on new fingertips.
• Buzzing usually means a finger is too far from the fret wire or not pressing firmly enough. Move it closer to the fret, just behind it, and press with the very tip.
• Dead or muted strings usually mean a finger is leaning on its neighbor. Arch your fingers so they come down on the strings from above, like a tunnel, and keep your thumb behind the neck rather than wrapped over the top.
• Tune first, every time. Even a perfectly fingered chord sounds wrong if the guitar is out of tune. A clip-on tuner takes the guesswork out; see our guitar tuners.
• A capo clamps across the neck and moves your chord shapes higher in pitch, so you can play along with songs in other keys using the same easy chords. See our capos.
• Left-handed players can use the same charts flipped like a mirror, with the thickest string on the right. Our left-handed guitars are strung that way from the start.

A two-week practice plan

Ten to fifteen minutes a day is enough. Tune up, then follow the plan below. Move on when the current step feels comfortable, not when the calendar says so.

1. Days 1 and 2: Em and G. Learn each shape, check every string, then switch between them for five minutes with four slow strums each.
2. Days 3 and 4: Add C. Practice G to C and C to G, then the one-minute drill on each pair.
3. Days 5 and 6: Add D. Play G – C – D on a loop, four strums each.
4. Day 7: Play Em – C – G – D and G – Em – C – D. Try the down, down-up, up-down-up strum on one chord at a time.
5. Days 8 and 9: Learn Am and E. Notice they are the same shape on different strings. Practice C to Am and Am to E.
6. Days 10 and 11: Learn A and Dm. Play A – D – E and Am – Dm – E.
7. Days 12 and 13: Learn E7, A7, D7 and G7. Try G – G7 – C, and A – D – E7.
8. Day 14: Learn Fmaj7 and play C – Am – Fmaj7 – G. Then pick a simple song you love, look up its chords, and play along.

Guitars to learn chords on

Any guitar in good playing order will do. These are popular first guitars in stock now. Prices and stock update automatically.

See more steel-string acoustic guitars, classical guitars, acoustic-electric guitars and electric guitars; every chord on this page works the same on all of them. For a child, our child-size guitars and our guide to choosing the right size guitar for a child help you pick a guitar their hands can reach around.

Keep learning

• How to read guitar tabs: the other half of reading guitar music, for riffs and melodies.
• Guitar string names: E, A, D, G, B, E and easy ways to remember them.
• Parts of a guitar and parts of an electric guitar: labeled diagrams of every part named on this page.
• How to restring a guitar: fresh strings make chords ring and stay in tune.

Frequently asked questions

What are the easiest guitar chords for beginners?

E minor is the easiest: two fingers on the 2nd fret and all six strings strummed. E7 is close behind. The best first set is G, C, D and Em, because they sound good together and play a huge number of songs.

How many chords do I need to know to play songs?

Three or four. Many popular songs use only G, C and D, or Em, C, G and D. With the 14 chords on this chart you can play most beginner songbooks.

Why do my chords sound buzzy or muffled?

A buzz usually means a finger is too far from the fret wire or pressing too lightly; move it just behind the fret and press with the fingertip. A muffled string usually means another finger is touching it; arch your fingers more and keep your thumb behind the neck.

How long does it take to learn beginner guitar chords?

Most people can hold G, C, D and Em within the first week of short daily practice. Changing between them in time with a steady strum usually takes a few weeks. Daily practice of 10 to 15 minutes makes the biggest difference.

Should beginners learn the F barre chord?

Not first. Start with Fmaj7 or the small F on our chart, which use the same finger positions on the top strings. Once those are comfortable, usually after a few weeks, the full barre chord comes much more easily.

Do my fingertips have to hurt?

Some soreness in the first two or three weeks is normal while calluses form. Stop when it hurts, play a little every day rather than a lot at once, and consider a nylon-string classical guitar, which is gentler on the fingers.

Every violin goes out of tune. The strings stretch, the wood moves with the weather, and the pegs settle a little each day. That is normal, and it is why every violinist, from a first-week beginner to a concert soloist, tunes before playing. The good news: once you know which part does what, tuning takes about a minute. This guide shows you the notes, the tools and the steps, in the order most teachers teach them.

The violin string notes

With the violin facing you, scroll at the top, the strings run from left to right like this:

G · D · A · E

Each string is a fifth (five note names) above the one before it: G to D, D to A, A to E. That pattern is what makes tuning by ear possible, which we cover below. A favorite way to remember the order is Good Dogs Always Eat.

A4 at 440 Hz is the standard pitch used across the United States and most of the world. Some orchestras tune a hair higher, to 442 Hz. If your teacher or your group does, set your tuner to match; otherwise leave it at 440.

The parts you use to tune

• Pegs. The four wooden knobs in the pegbox near the scroll, one for each string. The G and D pegs are on the left side of the pegbox, and the A and E pegs are on the right. Pegs make big changes: a small turn moves the note a long way.
• Fine tuners. The small metal screws on the tailpiece, one per string on most student violins. They make tiny changes and are the easiest way for a beginner to tune. Many advanced players keep only one fine tuner, on the E string.
• Bridge. The thin wooden piece the strings cross. It is held in place only by the pressure of the strings, so it can lean as you tune. More on that below.

For a full tour of every other part, see our parts of a violin guide.

How to tune a violin with a tuner, step by step

This is the method we recommend for every beginner. A clip-on tuner feels the vibration of the violin directly, so it works even in a noisy room. A phone tuner app listens through the microphone and works well in a quiet one.

1. Get set up. Sit down and rest the violin on your lap or hold it upright, scroll at the top, strings facing you. You do not need the bow; plucking the strings is easier while tuning.
2. Attach and set the tuner. Clip the tuner to the scroll, or open your tuner app. Check it is set to a chromatic or violin mode and to A = 440 Hz.
3. Pluck the A string. It is the second string from the right. Pluck it with your thumb or a finger near the end of the fingerboard and read the tuner.
4. Read the needle. If the tuner shows A and the needle or light sits in the center, it is in tune. Left of center (or a flat sign) means the note is too low. Right of center (or a sharp sign) means it is too high.
5. Adjust with the fine tuner. Turn the A string's fine tuner a little at a time. Clockwise (to the right) raises the note; counterclockwise lowers it. Pluck again after each small turn.
6. Tune the D string, then G, then E. Repeat the same pluck, read and adjust for each one. Aim for D on the D string, G on the G string and E on the E string.
7. Check them all again. Changing one string shifts the tension on the violin slightly, so a string you tuned first can move. Go back through all four once more.
8. Look at the bridge. Glance at it from the side. It should stand straight up, not lean toward the fingerboard. If it leans, see the bridge section below before you play.

If the tuner shows the wrong letter entirely, or the fine tuner will not turn any further, the string is too far off for the fine tuner. That is a job for the peg.

How to tune with the pegs

Use the pegs when a string is a long way off, after a new string goes on, or when a fine tuner has run out of room. Pegs take a little practice, so go slowly. Many teachers prefer to handle the pegs for young students at first.

1. Find the right peg. Follow the string up past the nut into the pegbox to see which peg it winds onto. Turning the wrong peg is the most common beginner mistake.
2. Loosen first. Turn the peg slightly in the direction that loosens the string, so the note drops just below where you want it. Tuning up to a note, rather than down to it, leaves the string pulling the peg snug, and it holds better.
3. Push in while you turn. Hold the peg between your thumb and fingers and press it gently into the pegbox as you turn it, the way you would push a cork into a bottle while twisting it. The peg is a tapered wooden fit held only by friction; the push is what makes it grip.
4. Turn in tiny amounts. A movement of a few millimeters can change the note a lot. Pluck and check the tuner as you go.
5. Stop just at the note. Get close with the peg, then finish with the fine tuner if that string has one. Before you do, set the fine tuner to the middle of its range so it has room to move either way.

Why pegs slip, and how to fix a slipping peg

A peg that spins back and lets the string go loose is frustrating, but it is usually easy to fix. The usual causes:

• It was not pushed in. Pegs only hold when pressed into their holes. Loosen the string a little and retune, pushing gently inward as you turn. This fixes most slipping pegs.
• The weather changed. Wood shrinks in dry air and swells in damp air. In dry winter months pegs tend to slip; in humid summer months they tend to stick. A case humidifier helps keep things steady.
• The string is wound badly. The string should wind neatly toward the inside wall of the pegbox, with the last turns pressing lightly against the wall. That gentle pressure helps hold the peg. If the winding is a tangle, rewinding it neatly often cures the slip.
• The peg needs attention. Peg compound, a stick of special paste made for violin pegs, smooths a peg that sticks and helps one that slips. If a peg still will not hold, a repair shop can refit it.

Never force a peg in hard. Too much pressure can crack the pegbox. A gentle, steady push is all it takes.

How to tune a violin by ear, in fifths

Once your ear starts to develop, you can tune the violin to itself, needing only one reference note. Many teachers start students on this after a few months, because it trains your ear to hear when notes fit together.

1. Tune the A string to a reference. Use a tuner, a piano's A above middle C, a tuning fork or your teacher's A.
2. Bow the A and D strings together. Play both at once, slowly and evenly. When the two notes are a perfect fifth apart, they blend into one smooth, open sound. When they are not, you hear a wobble or "wah-wah" beating.
3. Adjust the D until the beating stops. Turn the D string's fine tuner slowly. The wobble gets slower as you get close and disappears when it is right.
4. Tune the G to the D the same way. Bow D and G together and adjust the G.
5. Tune the E to the A. Bow A and E together and adjust the E, gently.

Fifths tuned this way are pure, so the result sits a touch differently from an electronic tuner's readings. That is expected and sounds lovely. A tuner remains the quickest choice while you are still learning.

How often should you tune?

Every time you play. It takes a minute and makes practice sound better, which keeps a beginner motivated. A few situations need extra checking:

• New strings stretch for several days. Expect to retune them often, sometimes in the middle of practice, until they settle.
• Season and temperature changes move the wood and the strings. A violin brought in from a cold car needs a few minutes to warm up before tuning holds.
• Lessons, rehearsals and concerts usually start with everyone tuning to one A, so the group sounds together.

Keep the bridge upright while you tune

Every time you tighten a string, the string slides a tiny bit over the top of the bridge and drags it toward the fingerboard. Over weeks of tuning, the bridge can start to lean. A leaning bridge can warp, and if it leans far enough it can fall over.

• How to check. Look at the bridge from the side. The back of the bridge, the side facing the tailpiece, should stand roughly straight up from the top of the violin. Its feet should sit flat, lined up with the small notches in the middle of the f-holes.
• If it leans a little. Rest the violin on your lap. Hold the top edge of the bridge between the thumbs and first fingers of both hands and ease the top back toward the tailpiece in very small moves until it stands straight again. Keep the feet where they are.
• If it leans a lot, or you are unsure. Ask your teacher or a repair shop to set it. It takes them a minute.
• If it falls. Loosen the strings a little, set the violin down safely in its case, and take it to your teacher or a repair shop. The sound post inside can also fall when the bridge does, and that needs a repair person to reset.

When you change strings, change one at a time. The other three keep pressure on the bridge, so it stays standing and stays in place.

Tuning a child's first violin: a guide for parents

You do not need to play the violin to keep your child's violin in tune. Here is what helps most at home:

• Get a clip-on tuner. It is the easiest tool for a parent. Clip it on, pluck, and turn the fine tuner until the display shows the right letter in the center. Any chromatic clip-on tuner works, and a free tuner app on your phone is fine in a quiet room.
• Use the fine tuners only, at first. Leave the pegs to the teacher for the first weeks. Most of the time a fine tuner is all a violin needs between lessons.
• Tune it for them. Young children cannot tune yet. Doing it at the start of practice makes the violin sound right, and a violin that sounds right is far more fun to practice.
• Expect new strings to stretch. A brand-new violin needs frequent retuning during the first week or two. That is normal and settles down.
• Some violins arrive with the strings loosened or the bridge packed separately to protect it during shipping. If the bridge is not standing when the violin arrives, ask the teacher or a repair shop to set it up rather than guessing.
• Make sure it fits. A violin that is the right size is easier to hold, tune and play. Check our size chart for violin, viola and cello.
• Keep it in its case between practices, away from radiators, sunny windows and hot cars. Steady conditions keep it in tune longer.

Safety notes

• Do not over-tighten the E string. It is the thinnest and tightest string, so it is the one that most often snaps. Tune it slowly, preferably with its fine tuner, and stop the moment the tuner reads E. If the string feels very tight or sounds far higher than the A string, you have gone past the note: loosen it back down.
• Keep your face back from the strings while tuning up with a peg. A string that breaks under tension can whip.
• Watch the fine tuners' range. If a fine tuner is screwed all the way in, the lever underneath can press into the top of the violin and scratch it. When a fine tuner is almost all the way in, back it out to the middle and bring the note up with the peg instead.
• Small turns only. Whether peg or fine tuner, a little goes a long way. Pluck and check after each turn.
• Children and new strings: an adult should handle peg tuning and string changes for young players.

Good to know

• The tuner does not show the octave. Many tuners show only the letter, not which octave, so a string tuned far too high or too low can still read correctly. Your strings should sound in a smooth climb from G up to E. If one sounds wildly out of place, it is in the wrong octave.
• Electric violins tune the same way. Same notes, same pegs or tuners, same steps.
• The viola and cello are different. They use C, G, D, A. See our parts of a cello guide for the cello.

Violins that are ready to learn on

Every violin below is a complete outfit, so a new player can start right away. Prices and stock update automatically.

See every violin we carry on our violins page, or browse all orchestral strings. For bows, rosin, shoulder rests, cases and replacement parts, see our orchestral string accessories. Not sure which size to buy? Start with the violin size chart.

Frequently asked questions

What notes are the violin strings tuned to?

From the lowest to the highest: G3, D4, A4 and E5. The A string is tuned to 440 Hz, and each string is a fifth above the one before it.

Should I tune with the pegs or the fine tuners?

Use the fine tuners for small adjustments, which is most of the time. Use the pegs only when a string is far out of tune, after changing a string, or when a fine tuner has run out of room. Push the peg gently into the pegbox as you turn it.

Why won't my violin peg stay in place?

Usually because it was not pushed in while turning, or because dry weather has shrunk the wood. Loosen the string a little and retune while pressing the peg gently inward. If it still slips, peg compound or a visit to a repair shop will fix it.

Can I tune a violin with a phone app?

Yes. A free chromatic tuner app works well in a quiet room. Set it to A = 440 Hz, pluck one string at a time and adjust until the display shows the right note in the center. A clip-on tuner is easier in a noisy room.

How often should a violin be tuned?

Before every practice and every lesson. New strings and changes in temperature or humidity make it go out of tune faster, so check more often during those times.

Which way do I turn a fine tuner?

Clockwise, to the right, raises the note. Counterclockwise, to the left, lowers it. Turn a little at a time and pluck to check after each turn.

Changing strings is the most useful bit of guitar care you can learn. Fresh strings sound brighter, stay in tune better and feel smoother under your fingers. The first time takes about half an hour; after a few tries it takes fifteen minutes. The steps below are for a steel-string acoustic guitar, the kind in the diagram above. The sections after them explain what changes on an electric guitar and on a classical guitar with nylon strings. If any part names are new to you, our labeled guide to the parts of a guitar shows where everything is.

What you need

• A new set of strings. Use strings made for your type of guitar: steel acoustic strings for an acoustic, electric strings for an electric, nylon strings for a classical. Browse our guitar strings, or go straight to acoustic guitar strings or electric guitar strings.
• A string winder. A small crank that fits over the tuning peg's button and turns it many times faster than your fingers. Most have a notch in the end for lifting bridge pins. See our string winders.
• A string cutter. Wire cutters or the cutter built into some winders. You use it to trim the extra string at the tuner post.
• A tuner. A clip-on tuner on the headstock is the easiest way to get each new string to the right note. See our guitar tuners.
• Eye protection. Ordinary safety glasses. A string can snap while you tighten it, and cut string ends can fly.
• A soft cloth (optional) to wipe the fretboard and body while the strings are loose, and something soft to rest the neck on.

One string at a time, or all at once?

Either way works on a healthy acoustic guitar. Changing one string at a time is the easiest way for a beginner: the other five strings show you exactly how the new one should run, and the neck stays under its usual tension. Taking all six off at once lets you clean the whole fretboard and the top under the strings. A few minutes without strings does a solid guitar no harm. If you take them all off, keep the old pins in order, and put the new strings on starting with the thickest.

How to restring a steel-string acoustic guitar

1. Put on your eye protection and get comfortable. Sit with the guitar on your lap, or lay it on a table on a soft cloth, with the neck supported.
2. Loosen the old string. Turn its tuning peg until the string goes slack. Do not cut a string that is still tight: it can whip back toward your face and hands. Once it is loose, you can cut it in the middle to make it easier to remove.
3. Unwind the string from the tuner post and pull its end out of the string hole. Old string ends are sharp, so coil the string up as you go.
4. Pull the bridge pin. Use the notch on your string winder to lift the pin straight up. If it sticks, push the loose string a little way into the hole from above to free the ball end, then lift again. Do not pry against the wood with pliers or a screwdriver.
5. Take out the old string and set the pin aside, in the same order as its neighbors.
6. Check the new string. Match it to the string you removed. Most string sets mark each string by its thickness or color on the packet; the thickest goes on top, nearest your face, when you hold the guitar. Our guide to guitar string names shows which is which.
7. Put the ball end into the bridge hole, about an inch deep.
8. Push the bridge pin back in with its groove facing the saddle (toward the neck). The groove is the path for the string.
9. Seat the ball end. Keep a thumb pressed on top of the pin and pull the string up gently with your other hand. You will feel the ball end slide up and catch against the underside of the bridge. The pin should sit down flush and stay put.
10. Lay the string over the saddle and into its slot at the nut, then on to its tuner post.
11. Turn the post so the string hole points along the string, and thread the string through it.
12. Leave some slack. Pull the string through, then back it up so there are about 2 to 3 inches of slack between the post and the nut. That slack becomes the wraps on the post. A simple measure: pull the string tight past the post, then back it up by about the distance to the next tuner.
13. Bend the string sharply where it comes out of the post, so it holds while you start winding.
14. Wind the right way. The string should leave the post on the side facing the middle of the headstock. On a guitar with three pegs on each side, looking at the face of the headstock, that means turning the posts on the left side counterclockwise and the posts on the right side clockwise. Tightening should make the note go up.
15. Guide the wraps downward. Hold the string lightly with a finger so each new wrap sits below the one before it. Two to three neat wraps is right for the thick wound strings; the thin plain strings can take three or four, because they are slippery. Wraps going down the post press the string firmly into the nut.
16. Tune the string up to its note with your tuner. Keep your face away from the headstock while you tighten. Check you are turning the right peg: tightening the wrong string is the most common way to break one.
17. Stretch the string. Hook a finger under it near the middle and pull it gently away from the fretboard, moving up and down its length. It will go flat. Retune and stretch again two or three times, until it holds its note.
18. Trim the extra. Cut the end about a quarter inch from the post, still wearing your eye protection, and point the cut end away from you.
19. Repeat for the other five strings, then tune all six once more. Standard tuning, thickest to thinnest, is E, A, D, G, B, E.

New strings keep stretching for a day or two. Expect to retune a few times in the first sessions; that is normal and settles down quickly.

How it is different on an electric guitar

The winding at the headstock is the same as on an acoustic: string through the post, a little slack, wraps going downward, the string leaving the post on the inside. Many electrics have all six tuners in a row along one side. Then every post turns the same way, and the string still leaves each post on the side facing the fretboard. The big difference is the bridge end: an electric has no bridge pins. How the string goes in depends on the bridge.

• Through-body bridge. The strings go in from the back of the guitar. Thread each string through its hole on the back, push it all the way through the body and the bridge, and pull until the ball end stops in its metal cup (ferrule) on the back. This is common on T-style guitars.
• Stop-tail bridge. A separate bar (the tailpiece) holds the ball ends behind the bridge. Thread the string through the tailpiece from the side away from the neck, pull it through, and lay it over its saddle on the bridge.
• Tremolo bridge. On the usual S-style tremolo, the strings go in from the back of the body through holes in the back plate, into a metal block under the bridge, and up over the saddles. Change one string at a time: a tremolo is balanced between the pull of the strings and springs inside the body, and taking every string off lets it tip forward. Expect a few more rounds of tuning, because changing one string pulls slightly on the others.
• Locking tremolos clamp the strings at the nut and the bridge and use a different method. Follow the maker's instructions or ask a guitar tech the first time.

Use electric guitar strings on an electric. The pickups are magnets, and they need strings made of nickel-plated steel or similar to pick up the sound well. For the names of all the parts on an electric, see the parts of an electric guitar.

How it is different on a classical guitar

A classical guitar uses nylon strings and has a tie-on bridge instead of pins. There are no ball ends to seat: you tie each string to the bridge.

1. Pass the string through its bridge hole, entering on the side nearest the sound hole, and pull a few inches out the back.
2. Bring the short end back over the top of the bridge and pass it under the string where it enters the hole.
3. Wrap the short end around itself. Once is enough for the three thick strings; the three thin, smooth treble strings hold better with two or three wraps.
4. Pull the long end toward the headstock so the knot tightens and sits on the back edge of the bridge.
5. At the headstock, thread the string through the hole in the roller, bring it back around and under itself so it locks, then wind it onto the roller neatly and tune up.

Nylon stretches much more than steel. A new classical set can take a day or two of retuning before it holds well. Stretch each string gently as you go, just as on an acoustic. Never put steel strings on a classical guitar: it is built for the lower pull of nylon, and steel strings can damage the bridge and neck.

How often to change guitar strings

There is no fixed date. A good rule of thumb: if you play a few times a week, change your strings every two to three months. If you play every day, or play shows, every few weeks. Children's guitars that are played less can go longer. Change them sooner when you notice any of these signs:

• The sound has gone dull and the ring fades fast.
• The guitar will not stay in tune, or notes higher up the neck sound out of tune even when the open strings are right.
• The strings look dark or rusty, or feel rough or gritty under your fingers.
• A string broke. Many players change the whole set at once, so all six sound alike.

Washing your hands before you play and wiping the strings with a dry cloth afterward makes every set last longer.

Common mistakes

• Winding the wrong way. The string should leave the post on the inside, toward the middle of the headstock. Wound the other way, it can rub on the next post and pulls badly across the nut.
• Too few or too many wraps. Too few and the string can slip; a pile of wraps that overlap and climb up the post keeps going out of tune. Two to three neat downward wraps for wound strings is the target.
• A ball end that is not seated. If the ball end catches on the tip of the bridge pin instead of the underside of the bridge, the pin pops up as you tune. Loosen, push the pin down, and pull the string up again until you feel it catch.
• Cutting too soon. Trim the extra only after the string is up to pitch. Cut before, and you may find there is not enough left for proper wraps.
• Tightening the wrong peg. Follow the string with your eyes from the nut to its post before you turn anything.
• Skipping the stretch. Unstretched strings go flat for days. A minute of gentle stretching saves a lot of retuning.
• Putting strings in the wrong slots. The thickest string goes in the top slot, nearest your face as you hold the guitar. Lay out the new set in order before you start.

Safety

• Wear eye protection while you cut strings and while you tighten new ones. A string under tension can snap, and a cut end can fly.
• Keep your face away from the headstock while you tune up, and tune slowly as you near the note.
• Loosen before you cut. Never cut a string at full tension.
• Mind the sharp ends. Coil old strings and put them in a bag or wrap them before throwing them away, so nobody gets poked. Keep loose strings and cutters away from small children.

Guitars to practice on

Each guitar below shows one of the setups in this guide. Prices and stock update automatically.

For a fresh set, see our guitar strings, including steel acoustic sets and nylon classical sets. Shopping for a first guitar? Browse steel-string acoustics, electric guitars and classical guitars, and for a young player, our guide to choosing the right size guitar for a child.

Frequently asked questions

How do you change guitar strings for the first time?

Change one string at a time. Loosen the old string, remove it, put the new one in at the bridge, thread it through its tuner post with a little slack, wind two or three wraps downward, then tune, stretch and retune. Using the other strings as a guide makes it hard to go wrong.

Should I take all the strings off at once?

You can. A few minutes without strings does a healthy acoustic guitar no harm, and it is the best time to clean the fretboard. On a guitar with a tremolo bridge, change one string at a time so the bridge stays balanced.

How many times should the string wrap around the tuning post?

Two to three wraps for the thick wound strings, three or four for the thin plain strings. The wraps should sit neatly one below the other, going down the post.

Which way do you wind guitar strings?

So the string leaves the post on the side facing the middle of the headstock. On a guitar with three tuners each side, looking at the face of the headstock, turn the left-side posts counterclockwise and the right-side posts clockwise. Tightening raises the note.

Why do my new strings keep going out of tune?

New strings stretch. Pull each one gently away from the fretboard along its length, retune, and repeat two or three times. They will still settle for a day or two, after which they hold their tuning well.

How long does it take to restring a guitar?

About 20 to 30 minutes the first time, including tuning and stretching. With practice it takes around 15 minutes.

Almost every guitar lesson, chord chart and tab starts by assuming you know the string names. A teacher will say "put your finger on the A string" or "strum from the fifth string," and a set of strings comes with six labeled packets. Once the names and numbers click, the rest of the guitar gets much easier to follow. This guide gives you the names in order, shows you how to tell which string is which, and then walks you through tuning them yourself.

The six string names, in order

E · A · D · G · B · E

Hold the guitar in playing position and start with the string closest to your face. That is the thickest string, and it is tuned to a low E. Moving toward the floor, the strings are:

• 6th string: low E. The thickest string and the lowest note on the guitar. It sits closest to your face, nearest the ceiling.
• 5th string: A. The next string down. This is the note most bands and orchestras tune to.
• 4th string: D. The middle string on the thick side.
• 3rd string: G. The middle string on the thin side.
• 2nd string: B. The second-thinnest string.
• 1st string: high E. The thinnest string and the highest open note. It sits closest to the floor.

Both outside strings are called E. They play the same note name, two octaves apart, which is why players say "low E" and "high E" to tell them apart. "Low" and "high" describe the sound, not where the string sits. The high E is the string physically closest to the floor, which surprises a lot of beginners.

The string numbers: why string 1 is the thin one

Guitar strings are numbered from the thinnest to the thickest. The high E is string 1, the B is string 2, the G is string 3, the D is string 4, the A is string 5 and the low E is string 6. Chord charts, method books and string packets all use these numbers.

Guitar tab, the simple notation most players learn from, draws six lines. The top line of tab is the high E (string 1) and the bottom line is the low E (string 6). It looks upside down at first, because the top line is the string nearest the floor. Picture yourself looking down at the guitar in your lap and it starts to make sense.

Easy ways to remember the string names

A short sentence where each word starts with a string's letter is the fastest way to lock in the order. Pick one that sticks:

• Thick to thin (6 to 1): "Eddie Ate Dynamite, Good Bye Eddie." Another favorite is "Every Amateur Does Get Better Eventually."
• Thin to thick (1 to 6): "Easter Bunny Gets Drunk At Easter." Handy when you read tab, which lists the strings from the high E down.
• Make your own. Kids often remember a silly sentence they made up themselves better than any famous one. Any six words starting with E, A, D, G, B, E will do.

After a few weeks of playing you will stop needing the sentence. Your fingers learn the strings the same way they learn the keys on a keyboard.

How to tell which string is which

1. Look at the thickness. The thickest string is always the low E (string 6), and the thinnest is always the high E (string 1). The others step down in thickness in between.
2. Look at the winding. The thicker strings are wrapped with a fine coil of wire, so they look ridged. On most acoustic sets the bottom four (E, A, D, G) are wound and the B and high E are plain. On most electric sets only the bottom three are wound, and the G is plain.
3. Hold the guitar in playing position. The low E is nearest your face. The high E is nearest the floor. If you play left-handed, this is still true: the low E stays on top, closest to you.
4. Follow the string to its tuning peg. Each string has its own peg at the headstock. On a guitar with three pegs on each side, the low E, A and D usually go to the pegs on one side and the G, B and high E to the other. On a guitar with all six pegs in a row, the low E goes to the peg nearest the nut.
5. Check the color of the ball end. Many brands color-code the little brass ring on the end of each string so you can sort a new set. The colors vary from brand to brand, so check the chart on the packet rather than guessing.

Standard tuning: the notes and how to tune

Standard tuning is E, A, D, G, B, E from the thickest string to the thinnest. Music teachers write the exact pitches as E2, A2, D3, G3, B3 and E4; the number tells you which octave the note is in. The open A string vibrates 110 times a second, exactly two octaves below the A that orchestras tune to.

The easiest way to get in tune is an electronic tuner. A clip-on tuner grips the headstock, feels the vibration of the string, and shows the note name with a needle or light. Here is how to use one:

1. Clip the tuner on the headstock and turn it on. Make sure it is set to guitar or chromatic mode, and to A = 440 Hz if it asks.
2. Pluck the low E string (string 6) and let it ring. The tuner shows the nearest note.
3. Turn the tuning peg slowly. Tightening raises the note; loosening lowers it. If you are below the note, tighten until the needle reaches the center. If you go past it, loosen a little below and come back up, which helps the string hold its tune.
4. Repeat for A, D, G, B and high E, in that order.
5. Go around once more. Tuning one string changes the pull on the neck slightly, so a second pass catches small slips. New strings stretch, so expect to retune several times in their first day or two.

How to tune a guitar by ear (the 5th-fret method)

No tuner? You can tune the guitar to itself. This gets the strings in tune with each other. If the low E is a little off, the whole guitar will be off by the same amount, but it will still sound right on its own.

1. Tune the low E (string 6) as close as you can, using a piano, another instrument or a tuning app.
2. Press the low E at the 5th fret and pluck it. That note is A. Now pluck the open A string (string 5) and turn its peg until the two notes match.
3. Press the A string at the 5th fret. That note is D. Tune the open D string (string 4) to match it.
4. Press the D string at the 5th fret. That note is G. Tune the open G string (string 3) to match it.
5. Press the G string at the 4th fret, not the 5th. That note is B. Tune the open B string (string 2) to match it. This is the one exception, and it is the step people most often get wrong.
6. Press the B string at the 5th fret. That note is E. Tune the open high E string (string 1) to match it.

When two notes are close but not quite matched, you will hear a slow wobble, called a beat. Turn the peg slowly. The wobble gets slower as the notes come together and disappears when they match.

Why the 4th fret on the G string? Every pair of neighboring strings is five frets apart, except the G and B, which are four frets apart. That one change is what makes common chord shapes fit comfortably under your fingers.

Drop D and other common tunings

Standard tuning is the starting point, but players often retune one or more strings for a different sound. The string names change with the tuning, so a guitarist will say "my low string is a D" when they are in drop D. A few you will meet often:

• Drop D (D A D G B E). Lower only the low E string by one whole step, to D. Check it by playing the open D string (string 4): the new low string should sound the same note, one octave lower. Popular in rock and folk, because a single finger across the three thickest strings plays a power chord.
• Half step down (E♭ A♭ D♭ G♭ B♭ E♭). Every string lowered by one fret's worth. The chord shapes stay the same, the sound gets a little deeper, and the strings feel slightly looser.
• Whole step down (D G C F A D). Every string lowered by two frets' worth. Used for a heavier sound or to suit a lower singing voice.
• Open G (D G D G B D). Strumming the open strings plays a G chord. Common in blues and slide guitar.
• Open D (D A D F♯ A D). Strumming the open strings plays a D chord. Loved by folk and slide players.
• DADGAD (D A D G A D). A ringing, open sound used a lot in Celtic and acoustic fingerstyle music.

If you lower strings often, retune slowly and give the neck a few minutes to settle. A capo is a different tool: it clamps across a fret to raise every string at once without retuning.

String gauges, and which strings are wound

A string's thickness is called its gauge, measured in thousandths of an inch. A set is usually named by its thinnest and thickest strings, so a "10–46" set has a .010 high E and a .046 low E. Thinner strings are easier to press down and bend; thicker strings sound fuller and stay in tune more firmly.

• Electric guitar. The most common set is 10–46, often called regular light. A 9–42 set is lighter and easier on new fingertips. The low E, A and D are wound; the G, B and high E are usually plain steel.
• Steel-string acoustic. Sets are heavier, because the strings must drive a hollow wooden top. 12–53, called light, is the most common; 11–52 or 10–47 are easier for beginners. The low E, A, D and G are wound with bronze or phosphor bronze, which gives them their golden color. The B and high E are plain steel.
• Plain or wound? A plain string is a single solid wire. A wound string has a steel core with a second wire wrapped tightly around it. The wrap adds weight, so the string can play a low note without being too stiff to press down.

When it is time for a fresh set, our step-by-step guide to restringing a guitar shows you how to change all six strings without losing track of which goes where. You can browse acoustic guitar strings and electric guitar strings in our shop.

Nylon strings vs steel strings

Classical guitars use nylon strings, and the names are exactly the same: E, A, D, G, B, E, in standard tuning. What changes is the material. The three thin strings (high E, B and G) are clear or colored nylon. The three thick strings (D, A and low E) have a soft core wrapped in fine silver-colored wire.

• Feel. Nylon strings are softer and sit at lower tension, so they are gentle on the fingertips. That is why a classical guitar is a popular first guitar for young children.
• Sound. Nylon gives a warm, round tone. Steel gives a bright, ringing tone that cuts through a band.
• Attachment. Most nylon strings are tied around the bridge. Steel acoustic strings have a ball end held under a bridge pin.
• Good to know. Never put steel strings on a guitar built for nylon. Steel pulls much harder and can damage the neck and bridge. Buy the type of string your guitar was made for.

Bass string names: E A D G

E · A · D · G

A standard 4-string bass guitar uses the same names as the four thickest guitar strings: E, A, D, G, from the thickest to the thinnest. Each one sounds one octave lower than the matching guitar string, which is what gives the bass its deep sound. The numbers work the same way: the thin G is string 1 and the thick E is string 4.

• Remember them: "Every Apple Does Good." Any four words starting with E, A, D, G will do.
• Tune by ear: the 5th-fret method works on every pair. The 5th fret of E matches the open A, the 5th fret of A matches the open D, and the 5th fret of D matches the open G.
• All four are wound. Bass strings are thick; a common set is 45–105.
• More strings: a 5-string bass adds a low B below the E (B E A D G). A 6-string bass adds a high C as well (B E A D G C).

Want to know the rest of the instrument? See our guide to the parts of a bass guitar, and our bass strings when it is time for a new set.

Good to know

• The guitar is tuned in fourths, except one string. Each string is five frets above the one before it, except the B, which is four frets above the G. This is why some chord shapes change when they cross from the G string to the B string.
• 7-string and 12-string guitars. A 7-string guitar adds a low B below the low E. A 12-string guitar has six pairs of strings; the four thickest pairs pair a normal string with a thinner one an octave higher, and the B and high E pairs are tuned the same.
• Learning the parts helps too. The nut, the frets and the tuning pegs all come up when you talk about strings. Our guides to the parts of a guitar and the parts of an electric guitar explain each one with a labeled diagram.
• A tuner is worth having. A clip-on tuner is the fastest way for a beginner to stay in tune. See our guitar tuners.

Guitars to learn the strings on

Every guitar below uses standard E A D G B E tuning. Prices and stock update automatically.

Shopping for a child? Our guide to choosing the right size guitar for a child explains which size fits which age. You can also browse all our guitars.

Frequently asked questions

What are the names of the 6 guitar strings?

In standard tuning, from the thickest to the thinnest: E, A, D, G, B, E. The thick one is called low E and the thin one high E. A popular way to remember them is "Eddie Ate Dynamite, Good Bye Eddie."

Which guitar string is number 1?

String 1 is the thinnest string, the high E, closest to the floor when you hold the guitar. String 6 is the thickest string, the low E, closest to your face.

What notes are the guitar strings tuned to?

E2, A2, D3, G3, B3 and E4, from the thickest string to the thinnest. The two E strings are two octaves apart.

What is the easiest way to remember the guitar strings?

Use a sentence: "Eddie Ate Dynamite, Good Bye Eddie" for thick to thin, or "Easter Bunny Gets Drunk At Easter" for thin to thick. After a few weeks of playing, most people know them without the sentence.

What are the bass guitar string names?

On a 4-string bass, from the thickest to the thinnest: E, A, D, G. They are the same names as the four thickest guitar strings, one octave lower. A 5-string bass adds a low B.

Why do you use the 4th fret on the G string when tuning?

The B string is four frets above the G, while every other pair of neighboring strings is five frets apart. So the G string's 4th fret plays B, the note you tune the open B string to.

Knowing the parts of your electric guitar helps you follow lessons, set your sound and talk to a repair person. A teacher might say "switch to the neck pickup and roll the tone back," and a setup might involve the truss rod, the saddles and the nut. This guide walks down the guitar from top to bottom, the same way the diagram does, then explains the parts that make an electric guitar different: the pickups, the selector positions, the controls and the bridge.

The headstock

• Headstock. The flat piece at the top of the neck. Many electric guitars have all six tuning pegs in a row on one side, as in the diagram; others have three on each side.
• Tuning pegs. Also called tuners or machine heads. One for each string. Turn a peg to tighten a string and raise its note, or loosen it to lower the note. The string wraps around a metal string post on the front of the headstock.
• String trees. Small metal guides on the face of some headstocks. On a six-in-a-row headstock, the thin strings would sit too loosely in the nut, so string trees hold them down at the right angle.
• Nut. The small slotted strip where the headstock meets the fretboard. It spaces the strings and holds them at the right height. It can be bone, plastic, graphite or a bone substitute.
• Truss rod adjustment. Inside the neck is a steel truss rod that keeps the neck straight against the pull of the strings. It is adjusted with a small wrench, either at the headstock just above the nut or at the base of the neck where it meets the body. A small turn changes how much the neck bows; if you are not sure, leave it to a guitar tech.

The neck

• Neck. The long piece between the headstock and the body. On many electric guitars it is bolt-on: screwed to the body through a metal neck plate on the back. Others have a set neck glued into the body, or a neck-through design where one piece of wood runs the full length of the guitar.
• Fretboard. Also called the fingerboard. The strip of wood on the front of the neck that you press the strings against. Maple fretboards look light, like the one in the diagram; rosewood and other dark woods look brown or nearly black.
• Frets. The metal bars across the fretboard. Each fret raises a string's note by one half step. Electric guitars usually have 21, 22 or 24 frets, and a cutaway in the body lets your hand reach the highest ones.
• Fret markers. The dots on the fretboard, usually at frets 3, 5, 7, 9, 12 (a double dot), 15, 17, 19 and 21. Small matching side dots on the edge of the neck let you see them while you play. Some guitars use blocks or other shapes instead of dots.
• Strings. Six steel strings. Electric guitar strings are lighter than acoustic strings; sets whose thinnest string is .009 or .010 inch are the most common.
• Scale length. Not a part you can point to, but you will see it in specifications. It is the length of the vibrating string, from the nut to the saddle. The two most common are about 25.5 inches and about 24.75 inches; the shorter one feels a little looser and easier to bend.

The body

• Body. The large wooden part. Most electrics are solid-body: a solid piece of wood such as alder, ash, mahogany, basswood or paulownia. Semi-hollow and hollow-body guitars have air chambers inside for a warmer, airier sound.
• Cutaways. The curved scoops beside the neck. A double-cutaway body, like the one in the diagram, lets you reach the high frets from both sides; a single-cutaway body has one scoop on the treble side.
• Pickguard. The plastic plate on the front. It protects the finish from your pick, and on many guitars the pickups and controls are mounted on it.
• Strap buttons. Two metal knobs that hold a guitar strap: one on the end of the upper horn, as labeled in the diagram, and one on the bottom edge of the body. Some players add strap locks so the strap cannot slip off.
• Output jack. The socket where you plug in the instrument cable that goes to your amplifier. It takes a standard 1/4 inch plug. It may sit on the front of the body, as in the diagram, or on the edge.
• On the back. Turn the guitar over and you will usually find the neck plate (on a bolt-on neck), a plastic cover over the tremolo springs if the guitar has a tremolo bridge, and on some guitars a cover over the control wiring.

Pickups: how an electric guitar makes sound

A pickup is a magnet wrapped in thousands of turns of very fine copper wire. When a steel string vibrates above it, it disturbs the magnet's field, and that creates a small electric signal in the wire. The signal travels through the volume and tone controls to the output jack, then down the cable to the amplifier, which makes it loud. That is why an electric guitar is quiet unplugged.

• Single-coil pickups. One coil of wire, in a narrow cover. They sound bright, clear and glassy. Because a single coil also picks up hum from nearby electrical devices, you may hear a little buzz, which is normal.
• Humbuckers. Two coils side by side, wired so that the hum from one cancels the hum from the other. That is where the name comes from: they "buck" the hum. They sound thicker and stronger, and are popular for rock and heavier styles.
• P-90s. A wider single-coil pickup with a sound between a single coil and a humbucker.
• Coil splitting. Some guitars let a humbucker run on just one of its two coils, usually with a push-pull knob. You get a single-coil sound from the same pickup.
• Pickup position. Where a pickup sits changes its sound. The neck pickup is warm and round, the bridge pickup is bright and cutting, and the middle pickup sits in between.
• Passive and active pickups. Most pickups are passive and need no power. Active pickups use a small battery inside the guitar to boost the signal.

Guitars are often described by their pickup layout, read from the neck to the bridge: SSS is three single coils (the diagram), HSS is two single coils and a humbucker at the bridge, and HH is two humbuckers.

The pickup selector switch: what each position does

The selector switch chooses which pickup, or which pair of pickups, you hear.

• Five-way switch (common on guitars with three pickups). From the position closest to the bridge to the position closest to the neck: bridge pickup alone; bridge and middle together; middle alone; middle and neck together; neck alone. The in-between positions have a hollow, bell-like sound that many players love for clean rhythm parts.
• Three-way switch (common on guitars with two pickups). Bridge pickup, both pickups together, or neck pickup. It may be a blade switch on the pickguard or a toggle switch on the upper body.

An easy habit for beginners: bridge pickup for lead lines and crunchy riffs, neck pickup for warm, smooth chords and solos, and the in-between settings to explore.

Volume and tone knobs

• Volume knob. Sets how loud the guitar sends its signal to the amp. Turning it down a little also cleans up a distorted sound, so players use it as a quick way to go from crunchy to clean.
• Tone knobs. Turning a tone knob down softens the high frequencies for a darker, rounder sound. On guitars with two tone knobs, each one usually works on different pickups.
• Other layouts. Some guitars have one volume and one tone for everything. Others, like many two-humbucker guitars, have a volume and a tone knob for each pickup.

Bridges and saddles

The bridge anchors the strings on the body. On an electric guitar each string has its own saddle, which can be raised or lowered with small screws to set the string height (the "action"), and moved forward or back to set the intonation, so notes high up the neck stay in tune. The main types are:

• Tremolo bridge. Also called a vibrato bridge. It pivots on the body and is held in balance by springs in a cavity on the back. Pushing the tremolo arm, or whammy bar, lowers the pitch of all the strings for a wavering or dive-bomb effect. The diagram shows this type.
• Locking tremolo. A tremolo bridge that clamps the strings at the bridge and at a locking nut, so the guitar stays in tune through big bends of the arm.
• Fixed bridge, or hardtail. It does not move. The strings often pass through the body from the back. It is simple and holds its tuning well.
• Tune-o-matic and stop tailpiece. Two separate parts: an adjustable bridge carrying the saddles, and a bar behind it that anchors the strings. Common on two-humbucker guitars.
• T-style bridge. A flat metal plate with the bridge pickup set into it, and usually strings through the body. Known for a bright, snappy sound.

Guitar string names

In standard tuning, the six strings are:

E · A · D · G · B · E

That runs from the thickest string, closest to your face when you play, to the thinnest string, closest to the floor. The thin high E is string 1 and the thick low E is string 6. A favorite way to remember the order is Eddie Ate Dynamite, Good Bye Eddie.

What else you need to play

An electric guitar needs an amplifier and an instrument cable to be heard properly. A small practice amp is all a beginner needs at home. Add a strap, picks, a tuner and a gig bag or case, and you are ready to go. Our guide to choosing a Laney amp can help with the amp.

Electric guitars to learn the parts on

Every guitar below has the parts described in this guide, and between them they show each pickup and bridge type. Prices and stock update automatically.

Browse all our electric guitars. Learning acoustic too? See the parts of a guitar. Bass player? See the parts of a bass guitar. Buying for a child? Our guide to choosing the right size guitar for a child explains which size fits which age, and our gift ideas for guitar players covers the extras.

Frequently asked questions

What are the main parts of an electric guitar?

The headstock with the tuning pegs, the neck with the fretboard and frets, and the body with the pickups, pickup selector switch, volume and tone knobs, bridge and output jack. The pickups are what turn the strings' vibration into a signal for the amplifier.

What is the difference between single-coil and humbucker pickups?

A single-coil pickup has one coil of wire and sounds bright and clear, with a little background hum. A humbucker has two coils wired to cancel that hum, and it sounds thicker and stronger.

What does the 5-way switch on an electric guitar do?

It chooses the pickups. From the bridge end to the neck end: bridge pickup, bridge and middle, middle, middle and neck, and neck pickup. The bridge setting is brightest and the neck setting is warmest.

What does the tone knob do?

Turning it down softens the high frequencies, so the guitar sounds darker and rounder. Turned all the way up, the guitar sounds its brightest.

What is the whammy bar called?

It is the tremolo arm, also called a vibrato arm. It attaches to a tremolo bridge. Pushing it lowers the pitch of the strings, and releasing it lets them return to pitch.

What is a truss rod on an electric guitar?

A steel rod inside the neck that counteracts the pull of the strings and keeps the neck straight. It is adjusted at the headstock or at the base of the neck. Small adjustments make a big difference, so many players leave it to a guitar tech.